i adjusted the valve clearance as set by factory specs before putting in the motor but after putting it in i think its off  my dad went to give it a first start up and i heard a clunk inside and the belts slowed suddenly when i adjusted the clearance i was told by a few people to pull back the rocker and stick the filler gauge in and adjust until it moves freely but you can fill it slide inbetween slightly. so was i not supposed to pull back? addvice is apriated and a video of someone adjusting valve clearance on a subaru motor would be awesome.

i adjusted the valve clearance as set by factory specs before putting in the motor but after putting it in i think its off  my dad went to give it a first start up and i heard a clunk inside and the belts slowed suddenly when i adjusted the clearance i was told by a few people to pull back the rocker and stick the filler gauge in and adjust until it moves freely but you can fill it slide inbetween slightly. so was i not supposed to pull back? addvice is apriated and a video of someone adjusting valve clearance on a subaru motor would be awesome.

Setting by feeler gauge is something that gets better with practice. Assuming that you have followed the procedures for positioning the cam lobe for each valve the worst you are likely to do is set the valve too tight or too loose by a thousandths of an inch or so.

 

Are you putting pressure on the rocker throughout the "feeling", or just to get the blade in?  You should not be messing with the rocker or anything else while feeling the blade resistance.

i think this pic will explain better. and yes i put pressure through out the feeling

Hey there,If thats the MTR. for your TurboWgn.which I think it is, It has hydro lifters-83up automatics are hydro and 84up everything is hydro....You might of got them to tight if they aren"t pumped up-collapsed-they need oil pressure first...You might have to loosen them up and spin the motor over till you get oil pressure and readjust them[i"d leave them loose till you run it for a minute or five] I don"t remember if the book says anything besides not to mess with them.....To answer your belt ?s I didn"t have the a/c one or the pow.steer.1 anymore sorry...

i dont think think this one is hydro lifters but it could. i will do some more reading in the book i think someone took the hydro lifters out when they took parts off but idk. also figured out the belts it only took 7 trips to the parts store luckily its less than 2 miles away i just haven't got the part numbers with me to put them on the thread incase someone else needs them.

If you look at the nuts where you pushed you should see locking tabs under each nut if it is a hydro. There should have been stickers on the valve covers that said " do not adjust " but if it is like my Brat they were missing. If it is a hydro block I think it is different and you can't swap lifters because the oiling is different. I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I have never seen the locking tabs on a non-hydro motor.

Hey, TurboSub, I"ve been following Your {FREE WGN} since You got It...I saw the post for the car when He was trying to sell it for$200bucks and then offered it for free just to get rid of it-You got it...So if it was the Turbo Mtr.which it looked like in the Pics he posted it shoud"ve been  A Hydro Mtr.Being a Automatic... You can tell the diff. by the pushrods-Hydro PushRods-All Steel.....Solid lifter PushRods-Alum.W/Steel Caps....And Silvers right about LockTabs being on Hydro"s since your not supposed to mess with them....Can"t go by the valve cover stickers since they fall off from heat and age And Car Washings  -Nobody does that though

ok thanks that helps alot since i remember the push rods where all steel. the tabs where bent back when i got it so....i had to adjust them but now its time to look at how to adjust it in my fsm.