Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
legacy1

2.5l to 2.2l Swap Clarification

Recommended Posts

ok i found my problem but my question is how do i fix it. Right at the lowest point of the egr system on the intake manifold there is an open hole on the manifold. Seems like something should be there but isn't. Can i plug it? seems like its exhaust gases leaking out there. If i put my finger over the hole and idle it up its quiet like it should be.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=977689

 

its the little circle below the fuel supply like in the pic that it blowing air out on mine

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you mean the circle just an inch to the left of, and just below, the 90 degree left bend in the fuel supply - 6 oclock under the "G" in EGR valve text on the picture?  i don't think that is anything but a benign casting mark. you're probably feeling something there but the source is .....EGR pipe is closest to it, i'd suspect that.  is the pipe fitting tight?  after that i'd suspect the EGR valve/gasket, but that's getting far enough away that i doubt it would be confused with that casting mark. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well that is officially nutty, i have no idea how that could have happened unless it was compromised...which lines up with recent major engine work and that part coming out of the vehicle. it got bumped or someone tried to do something with it inadvertently.

 

i went and looked at one and see no way to work on it insitu.  even if there was clearance to get a drill in there to drill and tap, which i doubt there is, there's not enough clearance between the coolant pipes, bellhousing, engine block to do any drilling.  and i've done a ton of insitu tight space drilling on subaru blocks...right angle attachments, right angle drills, and shearing off drill bits to small lengths...doesn't look even close to possible to me.

 

left with removing the intake manifold for a proper repair or trying something simple in place.

 

only option i can see insitu is trying to place a cover plate over top of it.  you could fasten maybe a self tapping screw from the side if you folded a piece over top of that hole.  use right angle drills or drill attachments.  typically right angle drills have more clearance/more compact.

 

if removing the manifold the options are endless.  that boss is deep enough to easily accept a few threads from a tap and simply install a bolt with sealant on the threads. done.  it's fairly large and would require a 14+mm tap i believe...maybe a 12mm but i doubt it.

or cut a piece of metal and glue it in place and drill tiny holes in the edge of the boss for self tapping metal screws.

or replace the manifold

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Something that has gotten me puzzled from yesterday is that the foz tried to overheat yesterday on a drive. It's had no signs of wanting to overheat, radiator has always been full when I checked it, no signs of leaking anywhere.

 

Out of nowhere yesterday heat hand started to climb a little, the ac started blowing hot. Pull over upper hose is scorching hot, overflow is up. One of the heater core hose was fairly cold while the other was hot. Let it cool for a little while and take back off starts again. Rev a lil hand goes higher, while I was pulled over with it running it got cooler when I did that. Get it home drain the system check the stat it's open, closes in the cooler air outside but has some jelly looking crap on it like something gelled.

 

Flush it a little and refill the system, changed the radiator cap, it seemed weak and all seems well so far. Fans cycle where they were constant before.

 

Odd thing is not much coolant came out when drained.

 

Fluke air pocket? Possible the cap was my culprit allowing to leak somewhere?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bad cap is a possibility - keep an eye on things for a few days...

 

unless you actually have the temp selector turned up for heat, one heater hose being "relatively cool" is perfectly normal - coolant only circulates thru the heater core when the temp selector is set for heat.

 

just out of curiousity - do you open the temp selector to the "hot" position when refilling the system for complete circulation? if not, you should - air can get trapped in the heater core section otherwise, causing random issues later...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bad cap is a possibility - keep an eye on things for a few days...

 

unless you actually have the temp selector turned up for heat, one heater hose being "relatively cool" is perfectly normal - coolant only circulates thru the heater core when the temp selector is set for heat.

 

just out of curiousity - do you open the temp selector to the "hot" position when refilling the system for complete circulation? if not, you should - air can get trapped in the heater core section otherwise, causing random issues later...

 

Subaru's do not use a valve on the heater core to limit flow.  Not since the end of the EA81 line.

 

The heater cores are full flow, and provide the bypass for warm up.

 

One hose being cold while one is hot is not normal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Subaru's do not use a valve on the heater core to limit flow.  Not since the end of the EA81 line.

 

The heater cores are full flow, and provide the bypass for warm up.

 

One hose being cold while one is hot is not normal.

 

I did not know that - so I learned something new... :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello All.  I am new to the Subaru forums, but a long time mechanic and am on my second Subaru.  My first project was 2 Loyale's into one running rebuilt 1.8 with all wheel drive 5 speed.  Now I just purchased my 96 Outback and have learned a lot about the dreaded 2.5l.  Sweet power, but I want reliability.  I am swapping a 95 2.2 in now and would just like to know what to expect with drivability and fuel consumption.  What kind of mpg's are the 2.2's with the 2.5 ecm getting and how is the power?  I know it's not a 2.5 and it's like 20 less ponies, but I just want to know before I get rid of the 2.5 motor.  Also, what fuel are you guys running since the 2.5  ecm is tuned for premium and the 2.2 was designed on regular?  Any info would be much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×