03 baja 2.5

[2003Baja]

I'm new into the suby world, and i was wondering if someone knew of a bullet proof system head gasket wise, i have 2003 subaru baja 2.5 non turbo 5 speed.

 

What brand head gasket should i get? what brand bolts? any other opinions on replacing parts while doing the job? Thanks

[idosubaru]

*** Preliminary - if you're only leaking coolant externally then change the coolant and add two bottles of Subaru's coolant conditioner, it'll stop existing leaks (if they're not atrocious).  Don't do anything else though, either that or the following:

 

1.  Subaru EJ25 TURBO headgaskets (yes you can install them on non-turbo engines and they don't have headgasket issues)

2.  Do NOT replace Subaru headbolts, complete waste of time and you're probably getting inferior metal compared to the OEM headbolts. The one person I saw last year replace headbotls had the heads blow again already....aftermarket bolts probably weren't to blame, but they shouldn't make you feel any better about the job either.

3.  Add Subaru's Coolant Conditioner - it's required for that motor.

4.  Resurface the heads - the non-turbo's never need "checked", they're always fine to use - but they also almost always have high and low spots and should be resurfaced.  There's a fantastic DIY thread for resurfacing the heads yourself on this forum and it's super-duper easy actually.

 

Anyone replacing headbolts or suggesting it is borrowing specifications from other manufacturers, not Subaru specific.  You're better off listening to folks very familiar and well versed with Subaru's and your exact engine. Do the above and it'll never need done again.  Replacment of headbolts is materials and specifications specific...in Subaru's case they never need replacing.

Edited May 10, 2013 by grossgary

[2003Baja]

*** Preliminary - if you're only leaking coolant externally then change the coolant and add two bottles of Subaru's coolant conditioner, it'll stop existing leaks (if they're not atrocious).  Don't do anything else though, either that or the following:

 

1.  Subaru EJ25 TURBO headgaskets (yes you can install them on non-turbo engines and they don't have headgasket issues)

2.  Do NOT replace Subaru headbolts, complete waste of time and you're probably getting inferior metal compared to the OEM headbolts. The one person I saw last year replace headbotls had the heads blow again already....aftermarket bolts probably weren't to blame, but they shouldn't make you feel any better about the job either.

3.  Add Subaru's Coolant Conditioner - it's required for that motor.

4.  Resurface the heads - the non-turbo's never need "checked", they're always fine to use - but they also almost always have high and low spots and should be resurfaced.  There's a fantastic DIY thread for resurfacing the heads yourself on this forum and it's super-duper easy actually.

 

Anyone replacing headbolts or suggesting it is borrowing specifications from other manufacturers, not Subaru specific.  You're better off listening to folks very familiar and well versed with Subaru's and your exact engine. Do the above and it'll never need done again.  Replacment of headbolts is materials and specifications specific...in Subaru's case they never need replacing.

Thanks for your honest answer, seems like i got a few days of good quality work to spend on my car this summer doing this job, tb gasket, clean tb, intake gaskets and such,

 

I think I'm going to post a thread on what speciality tools i need to remove anything to get the heads off if needed like fuel injectors or something, but man i can't wait to do this job

[86BRATMAN]

to be honest, all the tools you should need for the job is a 10, 12, 12 point 14, 17, and 22mm sockets, ratchets, torque wrench, phillips screw driver, flat head screw driver, and a pair of pliers, along with some rags, patience and time to do this thing right

[idosubaru]

+1 to his list, no special tools.  I'll add the following (standard tools though) to his list:

8mm for throttle and hose clamps.  screwdriver is fine if you don't have rust.

C-clamp or vice to compress the timing tensioner (sloooowly)

12 point 14mm socket.  The headbolts on that motor are a 12 point design so 6 point sockets won't work.

10mm ratcheting wrench is handy for valve cover removal on most Subaru's due to engine layout, but not required.

 

source a piece of glass so you can do this simple time saving and money saving trick:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

it's so freaking easy it's amazing.

 

 

if you want to avoid removing the motor (i do), loosen two 14mm engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopper and jack the motor up for added clearance.

 

not much worries about injectors, the entire intake manifold just comes right off the top of the engine so unplug some harnesses, disconnect some hoses, and bam there's the long block - remove timing belt, valve covers, cams, heads.  that's it.  here's a guy that just did it and pulled an intake manifold and one head off here, exposing the block underneath:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138224-need-a-headgasket-set-but-my-engine-is-not-original/

 

flop the power steering to the left and a/c to the right without even disconnecting any lines.

[Fairtax4me]

You need a 12 point 14mm 1/2" drive socket for the head bolts. Other than that a basic metric socket set is really all that's needed.

You may want a high quality 17mm flare-nut wrench for the EGR pipe that goes between the head and manifold. Those fittings are usually pretty tight and standard wrenches round them off. Cheap flare-nut wrenches just expand and round off the corners as well.