Looks like some yellow paint from the Les S. hydralic lift transfered onto your control arm.   With the problems you are now experiencing, I would definitely take it back to them.  Have them put it on the lift so you can show them the problem.

  Take your camera with you and snap (again) some photos while the car is on the lift.   They should fix the problem.

  Ever since 'ole Les died, the company has changed.  They are most concerned about profits now.   Good luck.

I am not sure I want to even deal with them anymore. They lied flat out on my mileage on the invoice (36k warranty on axle ), putting down 142K when it was at 147K when I took it to them so I lose 5K right off the bat. I can't say for certain they bent my control arm, but it has been impacted. That probably explains why the camber is out of tolerence because it isn't adjustable. According to the paperwork, the range is 0 - 1.5 but mine shows at 1.6. The thing is the torque steer I am getting. It didn't do that before so something changed.

 

Does anyone know the torque settings for end nut on the leading rod? And the two front bolts?  I think I will try tightening them up first.

 

I know legally if I sue them over it, I will probably have to explain why I didn't take it back to them to "give them a chance to remedy the repair".  I am no legal expert, just saw a similar case on Judge judy lol. 

You never have to return your car to a crook or a bad mechanic to give them a chance.  what you will have to do is take it to another certified mechanic and get a statement on what the problem is and what likely caused it.  then if you get your ducks in a row and you paid with credit card you can have the credit card company yank your money back from them.  after that its up to you to defend against their retaliation for you taking your money back.

 

if you paid cash or dont have much of a case, call the better buisness bureau and/or the attorney general in your state and have them negotiate on your behalf.  you will then likely get in contact with someone much higher up the chain than the local schwab manager.  they may do a better job finding out whats going on.

Some cars have adjustable radius rods to set Camber/caster.

 

The tech could have mistakenly tried to "adjust" the radius rods to get camber.....not knowing that camber isn't adjustable on these cars.

 

That's why I simply use 2 yard sticks to set the toe.

 

Place the end of each stick inside the inner lip of the wheel at the back......and ovelap them.....mark the line where they overlap.  Repeat at the inside lip of the front of the wheel.  Compare the lines.  Adjust tierods until the marks front to back match.  then turn one tierod in 1/4 turn.  this gives you a tiny bit of toe in which is what theses cars require.

 

"alignment" at a shop on these cars is a waste.