So if I get a 99 phase two - 2.5 shortblock and use the original intake and heads off my spun rod bearing 99 phase two 2.2 ,  will yee in essence end up with a frankenmotor?

The basic definition of Franken-motor is 2.2 heads on a 2.5 block, mixing phases and blocks is pretty normal, usually its the block since the heads and intake used need to match the phase of the wire harness in the car.

OBD1: 90-94, OBD2 phase1: 95-98/99, OBD2 phase 2: 99/00-current.

What do the ej25d, ej251, ej252, etc. designations mean?

Edited June 23, 201312 yr by darsdoug

All un-bolted and ready to pull. I'm just waiting for a borrowed cherry picker to arrive. I know its a spun bearing. The piston pin access port is very convenient for checking movement. 

What do the ej25d, ej251, ej252, etc. designations mean?

They are the various incarnations of the ej25.

Ej25D was the original DOHC. 96-98

251, sohc version that followed 99-02/03? Ish

252 I think was a turbo but I'm not sure I don't know these engine codes as well as I probably should.

253 was the next in line,

257 is the STI turbo block iirc

 

Plenty of differences between those blocks even though the same heads will bolt onto any of them.

Thanks for the esoteric Fairtax. I obtained a complete running  2.2 out of a wrecked 94 Impreza today with 224K on it.  It's sitting out in my driveway right now. I'll take it apart this week to see what I have for a shortblock. I may be willing to part with the heads and intake if the offer is reasonable. Its a dual port. I plan on putting the shortblock in this 99 I'm working on.

I forgot to loosen the cam sprocket bolts before I removed the timing belt. What are my options? Will an impact rattle gun crack them loose? I like my fresh air shop.

Impact gun should take care of the cam gear bolts.  I've done that countless times pulling these things apart.

Is that the engine that came out of the car or is it the donor??

Edited June 25, 201312 yr by 86BRATMAN

Its the 94 Impreza engine. Brought it home in the back of a cargo van.  I can use that shortblock in my 99 if it appears it can go another 100K.... right?

I'm still waiting on my son-in law to bring the cherry picker.

Oh yeah, as long as it was a running engine to begin with there is no real reason it won't continue to serve you well.

 

I was just confused for a moment, thought it was the motor out of your 99, because its definately phase 1.

I am a bit concerned with the evidence of previous work done to it. Looks like red permatex overkill to me? I wonder how much found it's way into the inside of the crankcase? I'll have to go in and take a look around just to be safe. Those are the 99 HG's next to the 94 block. The 94 HG's don't have the same coolant openings.

Edited June 26, 201312 yr by darsdoug

Where its an open deck engine the gasket differences there won't matter.  They will match up to where they should be on the heads.

Right, you should use head gaskets to match the heads you want to use. The bore of the blocks is the same, unlike a Frankenstein swap where you need to use gaskets that match the bore. For those there is some drilling that needs to be done to the gaskets to make the holes match with the passages in the heads.

 

And yes it's smart to pull that oil pan and reseal it, and check for blobs of RTV stuck to the pickup.

I removed all the permatex. It didn't have a regular pan gasket. PO must have been on a tight budget? The inside of the pan and the crankcase is fairly clean for having 224K on it. The permatex had geezed into the interior slightly but was uniform. I did find a piece of broken spring washer in the pan. Perhaps someone here can ID it for me? Pic coming.

Edited June 29, 201312 yr by darsdoug

These engines didn't use an oil pan gasket.  They were glued on from the factory.

I removed all the permatex. It didn't have a regular pan gasket. PO must have been on a tight budget? The inside of the pan and the crankcase is fairly clean for having 224K on it. The permatex had geezed into the interior slightly but was uniform. I did find a piece of broken spring washer in the pan. Perhaps someone here can ID it for me? Pic coming.

It's a spring spacer from the rocker shaft assembly. There are 4 on each side and they for some reason like to break. They help keep the rockers in position on the rocker shaft. Pull the valve covers and check each side to see which one is missing a spacer.

It's a spring spacer from the rocker shaft assembly. There are 4 on each side and they for some reason like to break. They help keep the rockers in position on the rocker shaft. Pull the valve covers and check each side to see which one is missing a spacer.

Thanks. I sorta had a feeling it was from the rocker assembly but I didn't know for sure. I'm presently observing no piston ring wear ridge whatsoever at the top of the cylinder bores. Is that normal for a 2.2 with over 200K ? Also; a friend told me I can go with the used 99 HG's if I coat them heavy with copper spray. Does that sound acceptable?

These engines didn't use an oil pan gasket.  They were glued on from the factory.

I just got a 94 2.2 pan gasket from my local auto parts store this morning. Is it o.k. for me to glue it to the oil pan with a thin film of Ultra Grey? I apologize for the knit picky questions. I just want to do everything right.

Never re-use head gaskets. They will not seal correctly.

Take the oil pan gasket back, it is not needed and will cause leaks. The oil pan is sealed with RTV from the factory. A spread coating of Ultra Grey RTV is all that is needed to seal the pan.

I've noticed almost all the ebay gasket sets have a pan gasket too, I've never used one though.

OOPS...I already put it on. I guess I spent six dollars for a cork pan gasket I didn't really need?  Why would they make em if you don't need em?

because someone will buy one if a parts store sells them

Oh god, a cork gasket?!? That's a guaranteed leak. The only time I use those is never.

Take it off, clean it, and seal it with Ultra grey. Hopefully that cork didnt warp the pan flange when you tightened the bolts.

I only snugged the bolts down hand tight with a screwdriver. I'll check the pan flange holes for flatness after I remove that gasket. Thanks. Does that apply to EJ25's too?

Edited June 30, 201312 yr by darsdoug