EJ22T after swap problems. Fuel cut at 3 to 5 lbs of boost.

[Legacy777]

  Hi. guys.  Ivan,  my O2 sens. is an Inovativemotorsports wideband,  and I just today pulled it and recalibrated it. No affect. I really don't think the injectors are sticking or leaking, it runs clean under load till vacume comes up, then goes real rich.  I just checked continuity from the map and pres. sol. connectors to the ecu., and ohm and voltage numbers are all within book specs.  Do you think adding some sort of venturi in the hose between the maf. and the turbo would help with velocity?  Pin B6 on the turbo ecu wire is brown, and for sure it's puttin' out 10V + at the ecu. no mater what, even with the three ecus. I've tried.   Again, I think it's something I've done wrong that I'm not finding.  I should have kept better notes on all my testing, am sure I'm doing some of this over.  Thanks Yall,  S.

 

Steve,

 

Does your Innovative WB have a narrow band simulator output that you have wired up to the ECU?  If not, you essentially do not have an O2 sensor going to the ECU.  A wideband signal won't work with the stock ECU.

 

Just for clarity's sake, the proper pin location/id of the idle switch at the ECU is connector B56, pin 6.  The FSM abbreviates connector B56 as "c".  Also, from what I can tell, it should be putting out voltage around what the battery is putting out.  So if you have 10 v at the ECU, that's ok.

[Steve W.]

  Hi Josh.  I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up to the narrow band output, but I'll check it again in the morn.. Your rite, B56-6, (brain fart on the C thing) but my pin out chart shows 4.8 v off, and 0 v on.  Spent the whole day workin' on the 93 Leg. SS T, put a rebuild kit in the TDO 4,  htr. control cable, etc.  Getting ready for colder weather just around the corner, and this is my most dependable ride these days.  Appreciate your brain power.  S

[ivans imports]

On buggy we used two o2s one for stoich gauge and one for ecu but both could not use same o2 messed with ecus signal

[Steve W.]

  I ran this very same set up on the EA turbo motor,  and it ran cleaner than it did with the stock O2 sender.  I ran the stock sender when I first got this EJ running, then put the WB in place.  No change.  I could try the OE again, but no easy task, it's buried under the IC and heat shields.  Thinkin' of switching one of these ecus into the Legacy as Ivan had suggested, time is he issue, too much to do.  Thanks guys .

[Legacy777]

Assuming the narrow band output is setup and working correctly, it should be fine to provide the correct info to the ECU.  I ran my Legacy like that for a while before I put in my stand alone EM.

 

Regarding the 12v vs. 5v on the idle switch.  What is your other car's idle switch voltage?

 

In looking at this diagram, it shows Battery voltage going to the idle switch.

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_wiring_diag.jpg

 

 

I agree, it may be time to swap ECU's to see if that changes anything.

[ivans imports]

Well if make you feel better we switched the buggy to NA to keep it from eating engines 3 engines in 3 races time to say by by turbo

[Steve W.]

Hi. Guys. Sorry, havin' to work for a livin. Josh,I finally got around to checking idle sw. voltage, and it shows 0 V. ign. sw. on or off. I've got to run to Colorado for the weekend, when I get back I'll try running one of these ecus. in the Legacy to see what that does. Yall have a good labor day. S.

[Steve W.]

  Hi. Guys.  I'm back at it.  Today I pulled the ecu out of my 93 Legacy, (not as hard as I thot it would be) and stuffed in one of the suspect ones.  I fired it up, took it for a test drive, it ran ok, not as smooth as with it's own ecu, but enough to tell the tale.  Now I'm really frustrated.  I've run continuity checks from every sensor connector back to the ecu, and values of every sensor to the manual specs.  It seems obvious the prob. is in my wiring someplace, but not sure what to check next.  I guess I'll drive it tomorrow and give it a D check, see what codes it throws.  If I wasn't such a turbo junkie,  I'd wish I'd done the conversion with a NA.  Onward and upward..  S.

[Steve W.]

OK folks.  I got my wife to help me get my pics. from Imageshack to here, now I need to figure out how to start an album and build thread.  Don't think their in any particular order here, but with some help, should be able to master this process.  S.

 

 

 

http://imageshack.com/i/0bnnurj http://imageshack.com/i/jm2rmcj http://imageshack.com/i/0lftewj http://imageshack.com/i/nmvyc5j http://imageshack.com/i/0r44roj http://imageshack.com/i/mq7ja3j http://imageshack.com/i/ghkco2j http://imageshack.com/i/mx4yu8j http://imageshack.com/i/0dqd9xj http://imageshack.com/i/nehbzrj http://imageshack.com/i/1nqkguj http://imageshack.com/i/nppm5xj http://imageshack.com/i/nm30qgj http://imageshack.com/i/3u1cabj http://imageshack.com/i/593uxjj http://imageshack.com/i/jt5q1hj http://imageshack.com/i/5npi26j http://imageshack.com/i/mxl8naj http://imageshack.com/i/g45aj2j http://imageshack.com/i/5h0h9pj

[Legacy777]

Steve,

 

Nice looking setup!  One comment I've got....don't think it's necessarily related to any issues you're having, but it looks like you are dumping your bypass valve to atmosphere.  This allows metered air to escape and can cause the engine to run rich.  If you can do it, it would be preferable to run that back into the intake somewhere before the turbo.

[Steve W.]

  Hi Josh.  Your rite, and from threads over at Leg.Cent. I'd determined it's not a good idea.  It's on my list of things to change, and not being a tunner kid, I hate the sound of the thing farting all the time.  Any thots on where to look for my wiring probs?  Guess I'll start running continuity checks again to see if there's something I missed.  What kind of stand alone did you switch to?  I'm tryin' to sell some parts to raise some cash to upgrade.  Thanks,  S.

[Turbone]

I'd like to know where you got the rubber intake from the turbo to the MAF?

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.com

 

Btw, very clean swap.

[Steve W.]

  Hi. Rob, Thanks.  Most of my ducting is a mismatch of Volvo and Saab turbo plumbing. They've had a huge selection over the years.  Anytime I pull a turbo at our local J/Y I gather up all the intake, oil and exh. parts I can carry off,  keep a big bag of the stuff for projects like this. The two on the cold side are both Ovlov, not sure what year, mid 90s is my guess. The one at the maf. had much larger ribs, ground them down for appearance sake. The other is a 90deg. boot that works really well in these tite spots.  I appreciate you ol' timers helpin' me out here.  S.

[ivans imports]

Try removing the boost controler and hookup wastegate line direct to turbo and see how it works this should make 7 psi just to test.

[Steve W.]

   Hi. Ivan.  Well, lack of boost isn't a problem, I can dial up the controller and make over 20lbs. no effort.  Not sure what bypassing the controller would show, but I'm sure willing to try it.  Headin' now to see if I can find anything on the electrical side of it.  Thanks,  S.

[Steve W.]

   OK,  I'm back out checkin' my wiring again, and probably grasping at straws (what ever that means).  My Chilton diagram shows F/P relay, coil, ignitor, and B12, all yellow, powered and fused independantly, hot in run and start.  I have those powered from the main relay, with the YRs, hot in run and start.  I don't see how that should affect anything, but thot I'd ask.  I'm gonna go look some more.  S.

[Legacy777]

Steve,

 

I don't think that should be an issue powering them from the main relay as long as you're not overloading the relay.  I'm really not sure what to tell you.  Usually it's wiring, sensor, or the ECU.  It sounds like you've checked everything.  The only thing I can think of is that the problems you are having are a symptom not the cause and are being caused by something else.  So if there's anything else that is maybe not 100% right, like the blow off valve, try fixing that and see what happens.  I wish I had some better suggestions.

 

As for the stand alone, I'm running a LInk G4.  I would not recommend going with a stand alone.....they're just too much work from the tuning side of things...and a lot of money.  Go with a Rob tune ECU....it's much less money, and produces good results.  Unless you're trying to go crazy with this thing and have a lot of money to dump into it.....the stand alone route wouldn't be my recommendation.

[ivans imports]

When i a'm trying to tune a turbo car i set the wastegate in default setting by hooking the line striat up to housing this is to rule out any overboost problems or sensers that dont like to mutch boost is just to give you a consistant boost preshure to help diagnostics. I make shure its working 100% before i turn up boost

[Steve W.]

  Thanks Boys.   I've tried a few more things, I replaced the resister I had on the waste gate control circuit with the actual control solenoid, now it throws a waste gate code.  Can't win for loosin'.  I'll take your advise as gospel Josh, on the stand alone issue, I don't need more power at all, no're more headaches.  I'll try the boost control deal Ivan, not a thing to lose.  I did find that I've got a loose connection someplace, if I move the ecu. and wiring bundle around while it's idling, it starts runnin' rough and dies.  It's throwing a throt. sw. code again and idle sw., if I connect the idle sw. wires (still showing 10v +) while idling it sputters and dies.  I'm goin' into the wiring now to see what I can find.  I aint' givin' up yet.  S.

[Steve W.]

   Well,  still no gain.  I've got another throt. switch, I'll try that next but am loosing faith.  At this point it's just sitting in my shop in the way, running out of time and energy.  S.

[Legacy777]

That sucks Steve!  Wish I had some more suggestions for you to try.

[Steve W.]

   Thanks Josh,  you've all been a great help. I'll get back on it eventually, just totally burned out now.  Thanks ya'll again, so much.   Steve.

[Steve W.]

Hi.  Yall.  I'm back.  Been workin on other projects, and thot some time away from this thing mite clear my mind.  I got another throt. switch from the local JY,  it had been throwin' that code.  In the process of replacing and testing it, I found that in back probing the connector to chassis grnd. things appeared to be ok, but to the TPS grnd. polarity reversed.  So, 5V reference voltage, but signal power shows 4.7V throt. closed  and .5V wide open, all with reversed polarity.  That would account  for rich at low rpms and lean under load.  Now to figure out why.  I checked all my grounds and power sources again and find no problems there.  All the other sensors have correct polarity.  Another stumper.  Ideas?  Thanks,  Steve.

[Legacy777]

Steve,

 

Apparently the TPS scans I posted are wrong.  You should have around 4.7v when the throttle is closed and around ~1v with it opened.  The ECU I/O shows this as well.

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg

 

I'm not sure if the new TPS will make any difference, maybe it will.....but I believe your signal voltages are good.

[Steve W.]

Hi Josh, thanks. This page surely shows it similar to what I'm readin', tho both my multi meters show reverse polarity if I use the TPS grnd. This is also backwards from both Haynes and Chilton manuals. I'm goin' out now to trace continuity from TPS to eng. loom connectors, and from there to ECU. I show good continuity from TPS to ECU, but wonder if something strange could be goin on in between. Grasping at straws again.. Appreciate your heppin. S.