I just got a 78 best for a great deal. (can't beat free!)

 

Its all complete. A little ugly. Partially primer grey.

A little rust in front of the rear tires. Some along the edge of the hood. And surface rust underneath. Pretty straight body. Just some minor dings. Hasn't been on the road since 98. And I get to be the second owner!

 

Problem is, the idle needle/screw is busted. Haven't had any luck finding one online.

 

The carb is the dcj-306. Anyone have any leads?

 

Thanks.

Edited August 14, 201312 yr by jelder

I`m not an expert but I`d say your best bet if your going down that path is to find an old carb for the replacement,

I think a lot of people are here just replace them with after market.

 

Help is on the way! no worries

Ok, so the good news is I found a 79 brat in a pick-n-pull that still had the carb.  Idle screw is good to go.

 

I think eventually I will go with a aftermarket carb, but budget prohibits for now.

 

I do have  apretty bad exhaust leak, would the lack of back pressure effect the idle?  I can't get it to stay at one idle.  I get the idle to about 1000, and a few minutes later, it will be at 2000 or dieing.

 

I've also got a lot of sediment coming out of the gas tank.  I'm thinking it has to be that or the exhaust.  Any thoughts? 

Some of the experts should be here to help you out.. Sorry Im not one of them but we all do like to see some pics!!!!

Here's some pics.  
Thanks.

 

hey,

I had the same idle problem with my 1980 BRAT (which has the Hitachi carb). It would idle at 1500 and then would race up to 2500 to 300 rpms. Adjusting the idle screw didn't help. A friend Discovered that the accelerator cable was adjusted way too tight, which made any attempted adjustments to the carb ineffective. so he loosened it as far as it would go, then we adjusted the idle screw, and every thing was fine. It now idles at 800 rpm.

I've seen where a lot of folks change to the Weber carbs, but I have talked to 2 Subaru mechanics who worked on the Hitachi carbs back in the day,and they said that they were generally reliable, just keep a good fuel filter in it, and, if the car runs rough, keep an eye on the points, as they seemingly needed to be changed fairly frequently.

Wow. Its looks to be intact and good shape. A great starting point. Love it!!!

Really nice score on the Brat. Please keep us posted on progress with pictures, pictures, pictures!

Thanks.  I'll keep you all updated.

 

I had the accelerator cable problem the other night after rebuilding the carb.  Fixed that.  But it still idle's really bad and tends to stick at 1500 to 200 sometimes.  Other times it just dies.  I'm going to clean out the distributor.  Looks a bit dirty in there.  Might try a new set of points, though they don;t look that bad.  Anyone had any luck with the electronic point replacements?  I've used them in VW's, but not subarus.

Thanks.  I'll keep you all updated.

 

I had the accelerator cable problem the other night after rebuilding the carb.  Fixed that.  But it still idle's really bad and tends to stick at 1500 to 200 sometimes.  Other times it just dies.  I'm going to clean out the distributor.  Looks a bit dirty in there.  Might try a new set of points, though they don;t look that bad.  Anyone had any luck with the electronic point replacements?  I've used them in VW's, but not subarus.

A lot of guys go to the electronics distributors from the (I believe) 1982/3 and up units with great success.  I am looking into this as well but have not had luck scoring one.  But it is fairly common to swap it out from what I have read on here and searching the Google.

 

Glad you got the carb figured out.  I just swapped a Weber on my 1980 and had a Hitachi laying around.

Edited August 20, 201312 yr by O.C.D.

the hitachis run forever but are very bipolar and sensitive..............for me weber is the solution then get rid of the points and install an electronic dist.............be sure to get the timing bolt bracket underneath the distributor as the points distributor adjustment slot is closer to the base than the electric.

its easy...one wire( black with white stripe) is to the ignition power supply and the other (yellow) to the coil ground.

Ok, update time.

 

I replaced a few things, but didn't see much change until I replaced the pcv valve. 

 

Then I got to thinking.  In my experience with older VW's, the throttle screw should be backed all the way out before tryin to adjust the idle air screw.  So, I backed the throttle all the way off, then backed the idle are all the way out to try and get highest idle possible.  started it up and it idled steady at 600 rpm.  Was a bit shocked.  Does this seem right?

 

After that I adjusted both screws to get it to idle at 900, and that;s where we sit.

 

New problem.

Last night I was heading home and the alternator shorted out and blew a fusible link.  Got a refurb alternator and fusible links and put them in this morning. (That was before getting the idle set right.)  Now, with idle set at 900 and basically new alternator, I have the flashing brake and charge lights.  Everything I've read says that's the first sign of a bad alt.  Really confused.  Thinking I should go back and have the new alt checked.  Battery seems to hold a charge just fine.  About 12.5v.  Showing 13.5ish when running.  Any input?

 

Thanks,

 

John

Ok, that was quick.. Lose ground on the alternator... Good to go.

 

Now, if we can all pray that I pass deq!

 

LOL

 

John

same thing happened on my 78. it was the regulator.