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Headlight suggestions?


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I have always wanted to get a pair of what some call euro lights. They will fit where your stock sealed bulb goes yet it allows use of H4 bulbs for greater visibility.

 

You should not need to upgrade your alternator unless you are drawing an extreme amount of amperage.

 

Good luck! Happy Holidays!

post-24888-0-71700000-1387995274_thumb.jpg

Edited by 81EA81
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Set them up with Relay power straight from battery to bulbs.

 

Make sure to also provide a short, relay switched path to ground to do the triggering from the light switch.

 

I ussually use 4 relays. 

 

1 per side that provides 12v+ from battery to the common pin of the bulb.

 

And one that grounds BOTH bulbs lo beam side when ground triggered by the switch......and one to provide ground path to both bulbs high beam side when switched to high.

 

like this....IMG_3557_zps74d90496.jpg

 

This setup plugs into the stock sockets but you could splice into the OE wiring anywhere you like on the circuit.

 

IMG_3556_zps5d02eef0.jpg

 

This is using standard fuji relays.....you could do with just 3 relays or even 2 if you used Bosch style w/ 87/87a pins to switch.

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just put in sylvania silverstar lamps and I bet you will be happy.

 

I'll bet he'll burn up the stock sockets.

 

They were not designed for high amps.

 

Getting 13+v to the lamps will help more and be an upgrade suitable to put the higher amp bulbs in.

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I run my power feed off the alt strait to my headlight realys then to lights no fuse hot as hell get 100 amps 14.5 volts on two 100 watt bulbs works spanky

 

Well technically he'll get whatever amps the bulbs need......and not a mA more.

 

Which at 14.5v 100 watts will draw 6.89 amps.

 

 

I've never had any problems

Ever try it in an 32 year old car? 81 is an old model....with the old wiring setup (glass fuse) and the cars are getting older all the time.  Copper corrodes too.

 

Keep the volts high with a good battery and Alt.....and if your ignition switch is good....the 2 bulbs toghether on the grounded side of the circuit carry roughly 15 amps back to the battery (@ 13v+)  The stock wiring was barely rated for that.

 

Now......add brighter bulbs......and 30 years of time to that.  First time that the bat or alt drop off a bit, and the voltage to the lights drops to 10.9 now your up to almost 20 Amps on the circuit.  The corroded copper contacts just can't take it. 

 

Just cause it didn't happen to you, doesn't mean it can't happen.....it does.....I keep new sockets in stock and replace half dozen or more every year.  The older the more likely to be burned up

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I have had the silverstars in (two different) 1980 hatches for years. I am not trying to argue. 80 and 81 subarus have unique and nearly identicle wiring. If I were the OP, I would try the silverstars, as they are readily available, plug and play, and VERY noticably brighter. I would do this before I would go messing with the wiring. That is my advice.

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I have had the silverstars in (two different) 1980 hatches for years. I am not trying to argue. 80 and 81 subarus have unique and nearly identicle wiring. If I were the OP, I would try the silverstars, as they are readily available, plug and play, and VERY noticably brighter. I would do this before I would go messing with the wiring. That is my advice.

I bet you are the kind also to keep his battery and Alt.  in tip top shape....

 

I wasn't advising "messing" with the wiring in the car.

 

If you look at my relay bank, you will see that it's made to plug right into the factory sockets.....and supplied power from the battery through a fuse and fusible link.

 

Silverstars may not increase the Amp load too much....IDK.....but I know that I get lots of cars.....some even newer Imps and Legos that have burned up connectors from running extra bright bulbs.....perhaps not specifically silverstars.....but have seen it many, many times.

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