Now that my dash is back in, I took some time to look at the blinking LED on the ECM. Near as I can tell it's flashing 34 & 35, though it's kind of hard to distinguish. When I look that up, it says, EGR solenoid, and purge control solenoid. 

 

Does that sound plausible? What would be the cheapest best place to start? Advice and opinions welcome!

 

John

Yup, 34 and 35 are common codes. I used to have both.

 

What I eventually did was every time I went to the junkyard, I'd grab as many EGR and purge solenoids as possible. I'd change both of them, drive a bit, check the ECU. If the code was still there, move on to the next one. I went through about 4-5 solenoids each before I finally found good ones.

 

You can also mod in a resister for the purge solenoid, though I don't know the specifics.

hi,

 i applaud you for the job you've been doing , been following some of your threads and you have done a lot of work on this one!

 anyway the solinoids have  little plastic nipples for the vac hoses to them,,  very- very easy to break off and the hose will still be in place so it looks ok at first glance,  but no actual connection since its broken.  ( vac leak and no function),  your's might just be non functional but usually they get broken first.  they are very $$ to buy,  so look for them like jj421 was saying.  they are basically just an electrically operated valve, and a lot of other cars have them,, possibly a refit of something nissan or?? might be a possibility.  thinking the purge one takes the vapors from the charcoal canister and sends them through the intake to burn at startup, or something like that,, the egr one ithink actually has to function to make the egr valve function,  if it have it wrong hopefully someone can fill in more.

Thanks Guys!

 

Sorry I've been slow to reply; didn't get notified for some reason. 

 

I will check into those fixes. Thanks!

 

John

Broken nipples will not set the codes.only electical faults.

Most often burnt solenoid coils.Put an ohmmeter across one to check.

Yup, bring an ohmmeter to the yard and you can test them before removing them, I called a couple dealers and they told me the parts has been discontinued? So as stated above I grab any that show good regardless if needed or not:)