MuddyThunder Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hello, normally I wouldn't be needing help so fast but I got school in a few hours and I have been pulling late nighters trying to figure this out...I got a 1988 GL-10 turbo 5speed AWD the whole problem with this car started when the front main started dumping oil so I took it apart replaced the front main and in putting it all back together stripped one of the tensioner pulley bolts on the timing...drilled it out put in a heli coil and timed it all of that is good but in the process of doing all of this I popped the top off of the sensor on top of the coolant coming into the motor, got that replaced then found out that the sensor directly behind the intake and throttle body that goes directly into the crank (I think the knock) wasnt connected properly, so i pulled that, swapped it with another I had then proceeded to check for water leaks (because they are notorious for getting hard) and I did, so I pulled the fuel rail on the passenger side off to replace the hose hidden up inside there and replaced any others that were iffy, I guess my question is what hoses go where? it runs but has always idled low ( im just running a straight pipe down pipe so I think that is my low idle) when I go to take off from a stop its a little luggy it kind of seems if I accelerate and keep the turbo light off on the dash it runs well as soon as I roll into it and that light pops on it doesnt go anywhere and if i slowly get out of it until the light goes away it takes off like its holds the boost when you shift...I think I got a vacuum hose wrong somewhere it was like 3am when I did it and I wake up at 430-5am so I was a little tired...any help would be greatly appreciated and if you help cure the problem I will owe you a great big box of donuts or the best cup of coffee your choice (he he he)~Thanks MuddyThunder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 sooo after tinkering with her i found that it acts like it stalls out whenever the turbo light on the dash comes on...it backfires like mofo....but she sounds happy when the turbo light is off...plugging in the black connector for the ecm under the steering wheel shows a code 22 which is knock sensor I believe which is located kind of under the hose going into the back of the block right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 sounds like you know your stuff....ok so you get a code 2-2 , knock sensor. You should be able to test the KS function using a timing light. Set up timing light, watch the marks on flywheel, then get a 1/2" extension 12" long or so, and give short blow to the block central and see if timing retards on flywheel. I can do this on my 3 plug ECU set up which has a test lead to mnitor the volts out of their separate knock sensor so can also watch 1.7V rise to 4.5V. You may not have the luxury with the 4 plug ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 IIRC, there are two pressure sensors on the pass side by the air cleaner. One is for the turbo light and the other is for FP cut-off (if the pressure goes too high). Make sure you didn't swap plugs (which IDK if that's possible) if you disturbed them. Other than that, there should be a vac diagram under the hood... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 no vac diagram under the hood...I limped it to school and looked at it with the automotive instructor and found that on my passenger side valve cover the hose that goes up into the air intake to the turbo the hose was completely cracked out...so I replaced that and it still ran like crap...he said that if the timing belts are good then play with the distributor...I went to our local subaru tuning shop "FTW" and they said distributor...went to a family friend and he said distributor so i went home loosened it up and now it is sitting alllllll the way over on one side of the adjustment and is running fairly well...still doesnt have as much pep as it did before the cat delete so I think my timing belts are a tooth or two off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 You can pull the distro out and move it over a tooth to bring it back "in range". Even then, did you check the timing (what number is it now)? Are you running premium? I'd also check the injector seals (injector to manifold) for leaks/cracks. I've seen that be a BIG problem on old injectors, especially with the increased ethanol in the gasoline.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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