lennie11b Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Hi im new to Subaru I have a 03 Subaru legacy 2.5 the rear carrier went out and I have a new one ready to put in but I cannot not get the cv axles to go into the diff the snap rings are on the axles I think that's what is holding me up is there a way to get these axles in they come out easy enough please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ystrdyisgone Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) I haven't worked on these newer ones, but sounds to me (and to you as well) like the snap rings are preventing the axles from seating properly. Remove the snaprings, insert axles, replace snaprings? Edit: foot in mouth... disregard this post! Didn't realize the snaprings secured the axles from inside the diff. Edited May 10, 2014 by ystrdyisgone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 When I did my auto to manual swap, I had the same problem. what I did was get the axle inserted as far as I could by hand and smack the outside of the inner cv cup with a rubber mallet a few times. No damage to the boots and they are secure in the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennie11b Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I have got them in and hit them with the mallet will not work and is there enough room to get the snap rings on the axle thru the gears under the cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennie11b Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 should I put the axles in on the ground and jack it up or whats the best position to use for best chances of sucess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 if they're not going in then they're probably not centered or perfectly straight when going in. make sure they're going in straight. make sure they're the right axles...not that i can think of any they'd be confused with. if it's aftermarket diff, axle, or snap rings...i'd wonder if they're not precise enough. i've never closely inspected with the thought in mind, but i'd be very surprised if the snap ring could be installed insitu. *** Are you positive the rear diff is bad? 1. they are often misdiagnosed incorrectly due to torque bind which isn't caused by rear differentials. 2. failure is almost unheard of, they never fail. they're not even worth keeping if you part a car out because there's zero demand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennie11b Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 yep its bad run out of fluid and locked up big chunks of metal come out. The diff I bought come off of a salvaged Subaru a year older then mine the diffs are identical maybe I don't have it straight enough I just don't know how much force it should take to get the axles to seat should I bolt in the diff before trying to get the axles in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 great. yah, no fluid is one way to fry those mojo's! yah, that diff should work then. if you're having issues, don't have the diff installed yet - try installing the axles off the vehicle - diff on floor, axles on floor. that way you're not fighting geometry or weight. lined up they should pop right in - they will take some force to coerce though. maybe find a youtube video that shows someone knocking one in. front automatic transmission stubs/axles are the same if you can find one of those as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennie11b Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 should I take the whole axle down its still connected to the rotors I have a Haynes book but it says nothing about getting the axles back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 if the diff was pulled out like this - then i would reinstall it like this. pulling the axles is only one nut though. pop them in the diff, then trying to reinstall the diff with axles attached...that will be a cumbersome debacle manuevering a heavy lump under a car with two unwieldy axles dangling from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 They take a bit of wiggling to get to to start going in. The spline part should at least slip in part of the way. Then its just a matter of wiggling the cup a little to get the splines to line up. Turning the pinion flange back and forth may help. Then put a block of wood on the opposite side of the case and smack it with a 3lb hammer. Also make sure the opening in the circlip is pointed down. A mechanic I used to work with taught me this a few years ago and it really does make a difference. I've swapped the rear diff in my car without pulling the axles out of the rotors, didnt unbolt any part of the rear suspension, didnt even take the rear wheels off the car, so I know it can be done. And to me it was easier than fiddling with strut bolts or that 8" long lower lateral arm bolt that never comes out in one piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 ^^^ for what it's worth my rear diff was swapped with the back tires on ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Look inside the diff and make sure the old snap rings are not stuck in the groove in there. If they are.....just take the clips off the axle you are installing and let them pop into the ones sitting in the diff still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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