So I am swapping in a non egr 2.2 into my 98 forester. Bought all non egr parts thinking that manual transmission cars didnt have egr.well come to find out mine did. Now that I wont have egr I want to find a way to fool the ecu into thinking its working or find a way to get past it. Are there any obd 2 cars without egr I can get an ecu from? Or is there a way to do it and not have a check en gine light on? I live in a non emission state but the light will drive me crazy.

Yeah, All 2.5s in that era had EGR. Get an intake manifold off a 2.2 automatic w/EGR and just run a tube from the valve over to the intake tube. T it into the IAC hose or directly to the intake tube.

 

The ECU swap may work, but alot of times a computer costs more than an intake manifold at a junkyard.

You could swap the ej25 harness onto the ej22 intake, and carry over the EGR solenoid, plug it in, and cap off the vac lines. this would trick the ecu as far as the forester is conerned.

I am going to use the 2.5 harness anyways all the ecu is seeing is open and close for the valve? I could do that pretty easily.

Yeah, the ecu won't know different if the EGR is present as long as the solenoid itself is there.

Yeah, the ecu won't know different if the EGR is present as long as the solenoid itself is there.

 

Nah......It will know when the O2 sensor doesn't see a change in fuel mixture like it should.

 

I Have tried simply connecting the solenoid, and it doesn't work.....code comes after about 15 mins of driving

 

 

One needs to use a EGR equipped manifold.......and like mentioned run the EGR tube over to the intake boot so it can pass "flow" over to the valve when it opens........altering the mix enough to fool ECU.

Well I already spent too much for a non egr manifold and then I sandblasted it and had it powder coated. So im ki da stuck with it is there a different ecu I can plug in to eliminate it looking for egr?

drive it with the CE light on, it will run fine,

but you will have a CE light.

unless Tenn has a state inspection that the CEL would fail.

 

in that case sell in WV where they have no inspections.

or VA, the southwestern part,

we have safety inspections, but a CEL will not fail it.

 

PS: you can get the intake for about $65

www.car-part.com

Edited July 23, 201411 yr by johnceggleston

Have the car all hooked up and ready to go. Goi g to get it up and running first then see what codes I am deali g with. I have the egr solenoid plugged in and also the evap solenoid. No vacuum lines hooked to we ither of them until I can figure out what needs to go where.

Well so far no egr codes or evap codes. Only an externally leaking injector and a knock sensor code. 40 miles driven si ce first start up yesterday.

It will come on, just a matter of when all the dtcs get set. Way around this is a 96-98 ej22 ecu.

Evap stuff is easy. One line goes to the canister the other goes to the manifold.

 

EGR codes are two trip codes and need certain things to happen during a drive cycle in order for the EGR monitor to run. That has to happen two drives in a row in order to turn on the MIL.

Often if a fault is found on one drive cycle it will set a pending code, but will not light the MIL.

I have had my scanner with me and plugged in since starting the car. Nothing pending and the only code setti g so far was knock sensor which I found out is setti g because it keeps working itself loose. So I replaced bolt with a longer one.

You might have an oddball ecu like my buddy. His is a 97 legacy gt, it ended up with an ej22 swap without egr. We did the solenoid trick and it worked on it for about a year, till he spun another bearing because he's too lazy to change or check his oil without someone making him do it.

Edited July 27, 201411 yr by 86BRATMAN

Wonder what the ecu part number is? Its one little problem after another that I am slowly sorting through. Its 3 different engines all pieced together as one .

I'll try to get up with him to see if he can snap a picture of it for me.

Well the cel is on again and my scanner is at work. Im not sure which code I would rather see, knock sensor code or egr .

And there it was .....p0400 staring me right in the face. He said "I heard you been looking for me . Here I am what you gonna do abound it?" I told him I was gonna rig up some vacuum lines and make him go away forever.

I WISH it were that easy, but it's not. The EGR test is when you are decellerating AFTER the engine is warm, The ECU OPENS the EGR port and looks for a DROP in manifold vacuum. If it does not detect a drop, it sets P0400.Here's a copy right from the FSM:

 

Detect the malfunction of EGR system.
Intake manifold pressure (negative pressure) is stable because the throttle valve is fully closed during the fuel
shut-off in deceleration. In this case, the intake manifold pressure changes when EGR valve is opened or
closed. Judge EGR system is OK or NG according to intake manifold pressure change amount

 

This is why not only a defective solenoid, but clogged or open vacuum lines will set the code as well as a defective EGR itself.

 

 

Either live with it, find an ECU that doesn't have an EGR or replace the manifold with the proper one.

Edited July 30, 201411 yr by ferret

What if I teed into the vacuum line for the map sensor and hooked it to the egr solenoid so that when it opens egr solenoid it takes vacuum off the map sensor and lets it go to atmosphere?

It'll still set a code because the MAP value will change too much.

Manifold vacuum only drops a small amount when the EGR valve opens. It does not drop to 0.

 

Put an EGR manifold on it and plumb the EGR inlet tube to the IAC hose.