Car wouldn't start after parking it for a 1/2 hour on a slight hill. Had it towed home. I determined the timing belt had failed by removing the right cover and placing a mark on the belt...started the engine and it did not move. Took it apart, lined up my marks but forgot about the #1 cylinder thing~ redid it...using a gun cleaning rod dropped down into cylinger #1 and putting a mark on it in line with the edge of the body to detect the upstroke. When it was out the farthest, the arrow on the crank sprocket was right where it should be. I cranked the right hand side clockwise to bring the mark up. The left cam pulley is freed. I positioned the belt using all the marks, installed the tensioner and bottom pulley, pulled the pin and nothing moved out of position. I put the crank pulley and bolt back on...(runs better with it on) and it wouldn't start. Is it possible that even though it seemed cylinder 1 piston was all the way up that it was actually up on the exhaust stroke? Am I not understanding this? Also, I think I need to clear some codes, because I questioned that the MAF may have failed too...and I remembered I had another Subaru that would run with the (bad) MAF sensor unplugged. It wouldn't run well, but it ran. In unplugging it, maybe I threw up some codes, and because the car is so old, I don't think there is a port to plug in my diagnostic tool. Could it be the crank sensor? Car aaaaaaaaaaaalmost wants to fire. I changed the filter as I hadn't since I got the car. Key on, fuel shoots out. This is my third timing belt change and I can't help but think there may be something else wrong. 

Redo the belt using the hash marks on the pulleys......not the arrow (arrows are for valve adjusting)

 

TDC will be with the crank pulley key straight down at 6 o'clock......install the belt with the crank pulley like that and the notches on the Cams up.

Your crank is 90° off.

Subarus aren't timed at TDC. It can be done, but its a PITA.

The correct crank timing mark sets the pistons at half stroke, 90° off TDC.

The notch marks on the cams set them 45° off TDC.

 

Line up the notch on the reluctor tooth on the REAR edge of the crank sprocket with the notch in the crank sensor housing.

Keyway slot should be straight down. Arrow on the face will be at 3 o'clock.

i'll try that tonight after work. I didn't have this trouble when I did two other timing belts in 2.2's. Yesterday, I double checked the position of cylinder 1 and realized it was not all the way up...I hadn't read your reply at that point. So, when i saw that, I thought I was all set, based on prior experience. Put the belt back on, cam marks @ top, and arrow on the crank was @ crank sensor mark...it all jived with everything I had previously read and watched. Left cam pulley free, and right tensioned with mark @ top. The result was crank, crank, foomph foomph...foomph. Seemed close, and definitely more normal sounding compression at least, but didn't fire. I think I recall reading someone mention that right cam mark (as I'm facing the engine) should be straight down.

this is really simple:  line up cam marks and the crank mark (sounds like you're using the wrong one) and install the belt. 

 

that's it, there's nothing else to consider, think about, or line up.

 

there's no reason or point in checking cylinder #1 or wondering if it's an exhaust or intake stroke.

timing mark being down is not relevant to your engine, other Subaru engines have marks that go down - but not yours.

 Put the belt back on, cam marks @ top, and arrow on the crank was @ crank sensor mark..

 

 

NO arrows.......NO.

 

the crank gear has a hash mark on one of the tabs on it's BACK.......it will be lined up straight upwards when the crank keyway is straight down.

 

Then put the Cam sprockets so the hash marks are straight up.  NOT ARROWs....the hash marks are on the outer edge....not the middle part of Cam sprocket.

Sooo...this morning I put the crank @ 3 o'clock, keyway straight down and cam marks @ 45 degrees (prior advice from above) and the belt marks with the cover notches. I had worse response from the engine. The good news is, I'm getting faster at reinstalling the bottom sprocket and pulley

 

I actually have the day off~ and will next do it crank hash up, keyway down, cam hash marks up. As I FACE the engine, should the left cam be free? I recall Haynes for 2.2 saying LH sprocket being free, but that's actually on the right side as you face the engine. I hope the tensioner can take one more press.

 

I didn't check here for replies @ daylight...I guess I didn't expect this much help~ so thanks to all. I will let you know what finally worked.

 

And you're right. It is a sickness! I am my father's daughter and I'm tired of working to pay for what I can do myself. Love being outdoors anyway~

Maybe pictures will help (I'm a better visual learner).  Check these out:

 

You can see in the top diagram the keyway is at 6 o'clock in the middle (crank) sprocket which allows the timing mark to be on top and line up with the notch.  Sometimes those marks are hard to see.  Often a mechanic or someone else has added a bit of paint or something on or near the timing marks to make them easier to spot.  This is how it should look as your are at the front of the car (same perspective as the diagrams).

I had it all back together by 9am there was quite a bit of residue on that crank and the mark was there on that back tab. It fired right up. Not exactly sure why the nice little arrow kept controlling my brain~ So, hash on crank up in line with the hash below the crank sensor on the block, key way down, cams hash marks up with the notches on the timing cover. Like I said, I didn't have this problem with the 2.2 (twice!) Brain cramp with the arrow~

 

Was really excited to have the rest of the day to tackle the brake line in my Ford woodstruck.

Thank you EVERYONE.