I replaced the 5MT on my 99 Lego.  Drove fine with the usual rear wheel bearing hum and grind for about 30 miles.  There was an intermittent shake/vibration from the rear and then it became a full blown unbalanced load in the washer.

 

My bet is seized hub.  Any thoughts from those gurus? 

 

Will it be safe to drive ~6 miles across town to my lift?

 

Thanks!

Better check the u-joints or the driveshaft if you had it unbolted.

I wouldn't drive it until you give it a good shakedown and make sure none of the wheels are gonna fall off.

 

Its possible the trans you put in has a different final drive ratio than the original. What trim level is your car (L, GT, outback)? And what trim did the "new" trans come from?

Better check the u-joints or the driveshaft if you had it unbolted.

I wouldn't drive it until you give it a good shakedown and make sure none of the wheels are gonna fall off.

 

Its possible the trans you put in has a different final drive ratio than the original. What trim level is your car (L, GT, outback)? And what trim did the "new" trans come from?

It's a direct from Japan JDM 4.11 replacement. 

I've got similar issue(see rear banging)think it is center differential.

I've got similar issue(see rear banging)think it is center differential.

 

Violent shaking throughout like a bad u-joint or seized hub?  All the center diffs i've smoked have been very evident with lurching at wheel lock / cornering.

Well, if it is a bad bearing, just driving it a short distance will confirm this. Place your hand on each wheel. The wheel that is too hot to touch has the seized bearing. 

Well, if it is a bad bearing, just driving it a short distance will confirm this. Place your hand on each wheel. The wheel that is too hot to touch has the seized bearing. 

 

So if the hub is smoked should I replace the spindles as well?

Could be the tires. For whatever reason, I ended up with busted belts in BOTH rear tires, at about the same time. Tires were older Michelins. I suspect I pushed them too hard after a rear bar upgrade and seeing how the car handled, or it was from last winter doughnuts in the snow. Either way, both tires went and caused a horrid shake. Oddly enough, the front tires were OK.

 

I've heard of issues from people buying overseas JDM stuff that either fails quickly, or was bad to begin with. Suppose it's possible they sent you an incorrect gear ratio. To confirm the rear tire ratio, raise BOTH wheel off the ground and leave the trans in neutral. Mark the inside of the tire that spins forward (Posi rears both spin forward) and note the drive shaft position. Tire should spin 1 time per 4.11 turns of the driveshaft. 4.11 is closer to 4, and 4.44 is closer to 4.5, so it should be clear what's back there. Takes 5 minutes to check. Also, check that the driveshaft is still tightened to the hub spline. I remember the 7.7" AND 8.8" Ford driveshafts coming loose from those bolts backing off. Should be using red loctite to ensure they stay put.

Edited December 13, 201411 yr by Bushwick

Could be the tires. For whatever reason, I ended up with busted belts in BOTH rear tires, at about the same time. Tires were older Michelins. I suspect I pushed them too hard after a rear bar upgrade and seeing how the car handled, or it was from last winter doughnuts in the snow. Either way, both tires went and caused a horrid shake. Oddly enough, the front tires were OK.

 

I've heard of issues from people buying overseas JDM stuff that either fails quickly, or was bad to begin with. Suppose it's possible they sent you an incorrect gear ratio. To confirm the rear tire ratio, raise BOTH wheel off the ground and leave the trans in neutral. Mark the inside of the tire that spins forward (Posi rears both spin forward) and note the drive shaft position. Tire should spin 1 time per 4.11 turns of the driveshaft. 4.11 is closer to 4, and 4.44 is closer to 4.5, so it should be clear what's back there. Takes 5 minutes to check. Also, check that the driveshaft is still tightened to the hub spline. I remember the 7.7" AND 8.8" Ford driveshafts coming loose from those bolts backing off. Should be using red loctite to ensure they stay put.

 

 

This is my second JDM 4.11 Trans.  The previous one 'naded due to seal failure.

 

I scored a set of rears for $120 from the wrecking yard.  Will report back with findings after install.

Edited December 16, 201411 yr by 99lego

So after replacing the rear bearing everything was totally gravy for a few days.  Then once I tried to take her to town from the mtn. I only made it ~15 miles at highway speeds before the SAME SYMPTOMS returned.  Vibrations from the rear, heat from the same hub (right rear), and bad shaking which gets worse at higher speeds. 

 

Hanging caliper?  Who's got some ideas?

If the caliper is hung up or seized it can heat up the rotor and cause vibration. Had that happen on my GFs 95.

Jack up the rear wheels and see if one of them is harder to turn than the other.

If the caliper is hung up or seized it can heat up the rotor and cause vibration. Had that happen on my GFs 95.

Jack up the rear wheels and see if one of them is harder to turn than the other.

Calipers were good.  The pads were seized in the holders. 

 

It should go: Taxes, Rust, Death.