952.2LX Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Ok, here is the run down. 1995 impreza 350,000 miles. Salvage yard tranny replacement. When we were replacing the tranny the idiots at the yard had cut the rear speed sensor....which is not necessary. So, we spliced it and installed the tranny. Upon test run it wont shift to 4th and when I let of the gas the rpm drops to idle. Also there is a bit of shuddering around 40mph up to 50 then "seems" to go away. We put a reader on it and it threw code for "clutch selonoid open"...which from what i understand its supposed to be open? What is wrong? What do I need to do? (besides get a new car...which is what everyone is saying....why are you doing this to this car....I say...well cuz i can. :) ) Any and all help would be most appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) is the oil pan on the trans dented? did you jack it up by the oil pan ? open means there is a short in the circuit. jacking on the oil pan and denting it will damage wires inside. i do not remember if the ''clutch solenoid'' is the common damage . clutch solenoid sounds a bit off, usually it is some thing like torque converter lock up solenoid duty solenoid A but i don't really know. i would double check the connectors on top of the trans and where it meets the engine. examine the pins to make sure they are clean and unbent. check the wires as they meet the connectors. cut the rear speed sensor....which is not necessary. not needed to run in FWD, but AWD will not work with out the rear speed sensor. the splice should be ok, as long as you do a good job. i think the wire is shielded. not shifting to 4th could be a temp issue. these trans will not go to 4th unless it has reach full operating temp. but it could be a damaged wire or solenoid too. what happens if you select 3 and drive it, and then shift to 4. or start in 1 and manually shift up to 4? all other shifts work ok? We put a reader on it and it threw code for "clutch selonoid open" trans codes cannot be read with a reader, unless you have a ''subaru select tool''. do you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up? this indicates an electrical problem in the trans the last time it was driven. there is a diagnostic connector you can use to flash the trans codes. try searching ''readingtranscodes'' to find it. the black connector is under the dash to the right of the steering column, in the US. all pins are to flash codes. there are 2 ''probes'' for grounding out the pins. the AT Temp light will flash the codes, if any. it will flash an all is well code if there are none. you only need to do this if you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up. what Pxxxx error code did you get when you connected the reader.? did you reset it ? did it come back on? Edited January 8, 2015 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 No we did not jack it up by the oil pan. and no dents. The P code was P0720 and it did not come back on after cleared. No flashing AT light at start up. another symptom ... when in drive and at say 3500 rpm in D.... and let off the gas.. the engine drops to idle. but in 3rd it does pull the motor down. We are gonna try reading the codes. and will reply later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) another symptom ... when in drive and at say 3500 rpm in D.... and letoff the gas.. the engine drops to idle. but in 3rd it does pull the motor down. this is normal. in 1, 2, or 3 you can use the engine to help slow down the car. but in D there is no engine braking. your splice must have eliminated the cause of the code. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0720 try putting in the FWD fuse under the hood ans see how it drives then. Edited January 9, 2015 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ok we'll try that today hopefully.....barring no more ice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I would guess the torque converter lock is not working. In drive, at highway speed the tc lock should engage and feel like an overdrive shift, say at 2500 rpm at 65 mph. When let off the gas at speed, you should feel it compression brake. When accelerating, the tc lock would disengage allowing the rpm to increase slightly, and full pedal will cause a 3 rd gear downshift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Ok, my mistake...it drops to idle in all gears when we let of the gas. No motor break. Has the same symptoms with or without FWD fuse. Miles, the torque converter lock? What and or where or how do you fix this? if it is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 Update. We finally got to it again. My buddy pulled the pan to have a look and he said a bunch of little bolts fell out and wires were all loose. He matched all the runs and wire and little bolts to the old tranny for a diagram. And it seems to be shifting fine now.... Thanks for the help everyone. Moral of the story... go ahead and pull the pan when your tranny is actin up...you never know what you'll find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.