952.2LX

Update. We finally got to it again. My buddy pulled the pan to have a look and he said a bunch of little bolts fell out and wires were all loose. He matched all the runs and wire and little bolts to the old tranny for a diagram. And it seems to be shifting fine now.... Thanks for the help everyone. Moral of the story... go ahead and pull the pan when your tranny is actin up...you never know what you'll find.

Belt could of been a bit loose from the tensioner slipping. and slipped a tooth in the 150 and then caught on and was hanging in there so to speak Maybe? If not maybe a bad tensioner?

Ok, my mistake...it drops to idle in all gears when we let of the gas. No motor break. Has the same symptoms with or without FWD fuse. Miles, the torque converter lock? What and or where or how do you fix this? if it is this?

Ok we'll try that today hopefully.....barring no more ice....

No we did not jack it up by the oil pan. and no dents. The P code was P0720 and it did not come back on after cleared. No flashing AT light at start up. another symptom ... when in drive and at say 3500 rpm in D.... and let off the gas.. the engine drops to idle. but in 3rd it does pull the motor down. We are gonna try reading the codes. and will reply later.

Ok, here is the run down. 1995 impreza 350,000 miles. Salvage yard tranny replacement. When we were replacing the tranny the idiots at the yard had cut the rear speed sensor....which is not necessary. So, we spliced it and installed the tranny. Upon test run it wont shift to 4th and when I let of the gas the rpm drops to idle. Also there is a bit of shuddering around 40mph up to 50 then "seems" to go away. We put a reader on it and it threw code for "clutch selonoid open"...which from what i understand its supposed to be open? What is wrong? What do I need to do? (besides get a new car...which is what everyone is saying....why are you doing this to this car....I say...well cuz i can. :) ) Any and all help would be most appreciated.

LOL.....funny posts. I had the same problem with my car in my shop a few years ago. First time i found where the mouse mommy and babies where......... when i turned the heat/ ac fan motor on high....... hmmmm whats that buzzing/grinding sound. After awhile it went away. A few days later my car smelt of death.... had to find it..... suspected fan motor area. Removed fan and blade and whammyO! A headless mouse stuck in the fins ! ! With little dead babies also.... FUN ! ! ! Some time later i was working on the top end of the motor and couldnt' see down to the top of the block...... some sort of grass is there.....pulled on the grass.....and more and more came out with leaves and clothes and it was a full mouse nest in under the intake and crossover pipe... ! AWESOME SAUCE!! Moral of the story...... check everywhere for mice ...cuz they will get in there.

I have the same issue. Reverse going out ....and whining in first. @ 355,xxx and the second one...i still have the first one but the d/c is out. I wonder which path i should take??? Try frankinstiening the two??? or a used one???

Re- did everything and she started up! Thanks again Gary. Belt must of slipped or somethin cause the markings were way off?

Ok thanks guys. I really appreciate the help.

another question. Does it have to stay lined up? For instance if i tighten the crank pulley bolt and it turns the engine a bit. Would that cause an issue?

Ok, thank you very much i'll try again this evening. The crank sproket has a notch with a mark and should be lined up with notch on engine , correct? thats what i lined up to.

No I don't believe so. It all looked good when i put the new belt on. The first time when i forgot to tighten the idler the belt just came off and the engine stopped. Could one of the cams be 180 deg off?

So i did a another nose job on my 95 2.2 lx . 340xxxx.... i forgot to tighten an idler and the belt flew off. Replaced everything and tried to restart and its off timing. Won't fire, even after alighning the marks. Where do i go from here?

Well i don't know what i was talking about....lol ... for some reason i typed ps pump instead of air conditioning... oops...

Could be the power steering tensioiner pulley. Mine squeaked a bit .... whilst it was burning up. Then finally with the belt smoking i found the issue.

Green cup axles are the good ones. I have 325xxx miles on mine and have the clunk sound also. I usually attribute it to the ball joints going bad. i Never have changed the sway bar end links or bushings.... guess i should.

Has anyone had experience with Hydrogen on demand for use in Subaru's? I've seen some claims that using hydrogen on demand drastically improves mileage.

lol ...yea brake...err... umm ...yep the level was about a 1/4" low...filled her up..."brake" light off.

I've kinda had the same problem on my 95 imp. I've had the wheel bearings replaced on the driver side and at the same time rebuilt both front axles. that was about a in Jan 2011. A couple of months later i got a new set of cheap tires. all was fine for a couple of months. Then I Had some serious vibration going on and i left it until i couldn't stand it and took it in to a shop. They said the tires i bought are the worst type to by. One tire had apparently split belts and the other went outta round?, and they said i needed a new inner tierod. So, I got two new tires from them for the front only and told them i'd replace the inner tierod on passenger side. After I drove it with new tires it had less vibration...but i could still feel it. So i replaced the inner tierod on passenger side....vibration still there...then i replaced the drivers side about a week later...vibration still there only not quite as bad. Along with this is a rotation noise at slow speed and as the speed increase's so does the vibration...but then sometimes the vibration goes a little less and then sometimes its a bit more....I'm a bit confused..and kinda have attributed it to very high milage??? I put new struts on about 2 yrs ago.

Sorry didn't find the other post on same topic. I did do a search. Admin delete if necessary.

I have my dash light "Break" on....only when its cold outside. 95 2.2 impreza. 300xxx miles. Its done it for the past few years. I just ignored it until the car I presume got warm enough and then it goes off. It still drives and stops fine. Well curiosty has finally caught up with me. Any thoughts?