February 19, 201511 yr i think my ign module and or coil is t.u.could i use the ign. module off of an older (like 75 or 76) hei it just has two wires to the dist. and two to power it works in my yoda has anyone else tried this yet?
February 20, 201511 yr Appreciated SoopSoop, Very kindly let me suggest you, to fill the Complete information regarding your Subaru, such as Year, Model, Engine... etcetera; if your Subaru is a Carburated EA82, then you can find that there are some that has the Nippon-Denso Distributors, usually FWD models, while some has the Hitachi Distributors; a Photo of the part is much more Useful... there are also more Distributors available, such like the Optical Pick up... and that is for only one old-school Subaru engine... Also, during years 1975 and 1976, Subaru engines had Points on their Distributors, not electronic ignitions. I'm Not being disrespectful, I am trying to help you: because you need to Formulate the Proper Question, to get the Proper Answer. Kind Regards.
February 20, 201511 yr Oh man......when someone starts thinking it'd be "easier" to adpapt GM junk into their subaru....you know the car is in trouble.J/K Your ECU needs that optical disty unit to operate the F.I. as well as spark, so a GM unit would not work. You can use any 88-94 Fuel injected EA82 disty. Also you can use an 87 F.I. disty too.....but you'd have to swap connectors on the 87 to 88+ style. Why do you think your disty is bad???
February 20, 201511 yr Author the test light does not pulse when i crank the engine. i read somewhere on these forums that was supose to happen. i wasn't planning on putting the hei module on just wondering, you never know unless you ask.
February 21, 201511 yr the test light does not pulse when i crank the engine... Other things might cause that issue... So I kindly suggest you to do a Test of the ignition module, as Follows: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129601-how-to-easily-test-an-ignition-module/ Also, have you checked the Fusible Links already? ... to adpapt GM junk into their subaru .... ... a GM unit would not work .... Sorry, but I don't understand the GM part... General Motors? Kind Regards.
February 21, 201511 yr Generic Motors I mean General Motors. Garbage. "Generic Motors" is Fun! I understand now, Thank you.
February 22, 201511 yr Author i finally got my test meter working no continuity between the positive and negative post on the coil i am not sure about the part that bolts to the bracket it has a power transistor on it not sure how to check other than replacement
February 23, 201511 yr i finally got my test meter working no continuity between the positive and negative post on the coil i am not sure about the part that bolts to the bracket it has a power transistor on it not sure how to check other than replacement If you suspect that the ignition Coil is not working, you can try with a cheap junkyard replacement, if the engine Starts, then you'll know that it was the culprit, and purchase a Brand New ignition coil, keeping the Junkyard one around as spare. Also you may ask a friend of you nearby which might has a car with an ignition coil similar to yours, to let you Borrow it for testing purposes on your car... Kind Regards.
March 2, 201511 yr Author i tested the coil with a better meter and it has 1.5 ohms on the primary side and about 5.7k ohms on the secondary side so i think the coil is ok but not sure about the ign module but if there is no pulse when the engine is cranked. the diode that is wired with the ign module is bad supposed to have continuity one way and not the other and it has none either way and the light doesn't come on on the ecu,there is power to the ign relay but i can't get it to click or work i took the cover off the ecm and saw a bad resistor i think i will make a trip to pull and save,what ecm will work? do they have to be number matching or do i have to spend 400 bucks for a rebuilt one?
May 24, 201510 yr Author it still doesn't but i haven't had much time to work on it ,i think it is in the wiring up under the dash because if i wiggle the wires around everything lights up. i started to work on the front end yesterday and broke the bolt holding on the ball joint so much fun. got it drilled out but the ball joint was rusted in,took a pipe wrench to get it out,now to buy new parts and start rebuilding.
May 25, 201510 yr You should always have a spare distributor and spare coil on hand or in your car. They are still available at Pic-N-Pull in old cars. By substituting in your good spares, you can tell whether the original was bad. I had a coil go out the other day. I already changed out my spare distributor and that made no difference. I changed the black wire in the fusible link box with the spare I always carry, and that made no difference. That then narrowed down to the coil. I bought a new one ($45) and it now goes like a bat out of hell with 425,000 miles. At 250,000 miles or more, you should be changing the engine ground wire to a low mileage or a new one. Old ground wires get hot at the connection to the body, in front of the battery. That heat indicates that the conductivity is not what it used to be. The wire also gets stiff when it is breaking down. Look for similar breaking down of the wire at the connection to the battery hot terminal, to the fusible link box. And also a break down of the wire at the alternator hot terminal. All of these are very important wires.
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now