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Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Everything posted by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

  1. This is a Factory Carb'd + Disty EJ engine Running in an Honduran Subaru Legacy: (More info, part numbers and photos on this Thread ~► Here) The 1981 Ford Escort distributor fits with little modification. Slight modification of the drive plate to mate with the cam and open up the mounting bolt slots, in case you want to adapt a Ford Escort distributor, the parts needed from the Ford, are the complete distributor, the plug from distributor to the ignition module, the ignition module itself, an average ignition coil and its coil wire. As far as I know, besides the Ford Escort distributor, also the ones from the Early Mitsubishi Lancer and Ford Laser / Mazda 323 works. By the way, regarding this statement... ...Here I found one for sale, online: ~► https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-605372654-distribuidor-subaru-legacy-18-_JM Kind Regards.
  2. The LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subarus from the first gen Legacy, came from Factory with Distrubutors, Carburetors and Dual Range Transmissions; in the EJ 15, 16, 18, 20 and even 22; however, the smaller displacement EJ15 and 16 used one part number for the Distributor while the Bigger ones used another part number. I tried to source such original Distributor for few USMB members who asked me for; and only I found rotors and caps; I sent a couple of said spare parts to fellow members in USA. After purchasing those I realized the reason why those Distributors for EJ engines are so Scarse; besides the limited market areas where those models were Sold, the Original Distributors on the EJ were made by... Mitsubishít! 🤨 Take a look here for Photos of a Factory Fitted Disty on a EJ22 ~► Maybe, with so much sales online, you can dig and find one on eBay, and just install the original one instead of adapting. Kind Regards.
  3. I've been silently following this Thread, I really like everything you've done with the FF1 wagon, Good Job! Thank you for sharing the progress with Photos! Regarding this: I bet they were referring to the Shellac gasket sealer, the one that could bear with Gasoline with no problems. This one: ~► https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-original-gasket-shellac-compound-2-oz/ Kind Regards.
  4. Usually, it could be caused by using slightly oversized tyres than what the factory specified to be used on that car. Kind Regards.
  5. Dual Range Forester 👍 any recent Updates?
  6. ...and had Serious Rust issues all around! 😮 However, is always more fun to drive an old slow car, Fast; rather than being driving a Fast car, Slowly... Completely agree with that phrase. in my case, I've had good times swapping better, stronger parts from other cars' brands, to build my "BumbleBeast" as a Reliable car and seems like I achieved my goal long ago, as the Subie tends to not give almost any problem for years... Greetings from Honduras.
  7. Oh my God, that's a Big Difference! Awesome Built! Kind Regards.
  8. Here is a short video, from the Test after all this were done: (featuring weird background music to avoid copyright issues and laugh a little)
  9. ...completely and thoroughly deep Cleansed the Engine Bay and Painted it:
  10. Changed all eight old worn Hydraulic Lifters with a set of brand New ones, with their oil filler holes already aggrandized. Changed the old worn valve covers' Seals. Changed both Timing Belts. Changed the worn old Pilot Bearing from the Clutch...
  11. Once the Lifters were Ready, I had to ask to a local friend who has a small repair shop, his kind help and letting me to pull the engine in its place with his tools...
  12. Eating your Favourite Snack and Soda will help you to be Patient enough...
  13. My "BumbleBeast" it has being running with Valvoline's "MaxLife" semi sinthetyc multigrade oils; however it ran on mineral multigrade oils in the past and after all these years and miles, I decided to change the Hydraulic Lifters with a fresh set of new ones with their tiny holes already Drilled in order to improve the oil flow to them. The back from a 5/64" drill bit, fits perfect on the tiny holes, but its cutting knives on its other side are wider up to the next size of it, you'll never know how many of these bits I wasted until I found a suitable one that could drill their metal, it is amazingly hard and even tungsten carbide drill bits were wasted by the dozen... so, it is better idea to get the Hydraulic Lifters to a professional lathe shop and let them do that aggrandizement for you, if you can... in my case I done that manually. Then, a deep cleansing of each Hydraulic Lifter were nessesary.
  14. My beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" has the oil pump and its Mickey Mouse Shaped seal, in healthy conditions, so the noise that the old, worn Hydraulic lifters were doing, was not the TOD ("tick-of-death") sound; the clockwork noise were coming from their normal wear at this age and mileage... As I've read several times, long years ago on these Forum; certain members exposed that the oil access holes on the Hydaulic Lifters' body, are so tiny that with age and usage, the varnish and sludge of these engines could restrict and even block the access of the oil at them, making them to work dry and noisy. Furthermore, experienced mechanics suggested that such small openings on the Hydraulic Lifters' bodies, could be drilled and opened to the next size, in order to minimize clogging and let them get the oil pressure in a better way which may lead to a self cleaning operation. Here's an example:
  15. I decided to remove the Engine from the Car for three reasons, one was to do a deep Cleansing and repainting all the Engine bay; other reason was to change the Pilot Bearing from the Clutch, as it became loudly Noisy; and finally I decided that it was time to change the old, worn Hydraulic Lifters with a fresh set of new ones... even change the timing belts is easier outside the car, so I did everything at once. I obtained a set of new Hydraulic Lifters at eBay:
  16. I purchased the T-299 belt, the T-300 belt and a set of valve covers' gaskets, online at RockAuto:
  17. Well, long ago the Mileage Challenge got Surpassed as I couldn't find a new timing belts' kit on time; but now I have to update this Thread with new information: I had to buy separately the left and right timing belts in Gates brand, the T-299 and the T-300. The old Timing belts worked Coverless for more than Eleven Years almost reaching twelve and also reached a total of 114,XXX Kilometers, which means a little above the 70,000 Miles and those belts doesn't looked as bad as other timing belts that I've changed in other cars, even in this mere Subie in the past, when it had the covers for the timing belts; so, the warm air blowing from the radiator and the centrifugal action has helped these belts to be cleaner and last longer, being Coverless; as the covers tends to get oily and dirty.
  18. Recently, I had to change the Rubbers for the Engine Crossmember as they were worn and the "KiaStein" was making noises, but didn'y find replacements in my area, but an artisan who makes custom rubbers for trucks, here; and I asked him to make a set for me:
  19. Fits Perfetly installed the Remote near the Head Unit and Voilá! ... everything is working good, thanks to God.
  20. This is how the final product looks: Connected the wiring plugs: takes up very little space at the bottom of the trunk:
  21. No Problem with that, I disassembled it for cutting an inch off As I already installed all the Needed wiring in the Trunk, I can not Resist the Temptation of Testing the Sub Woofer without its Box: https://i.imgur.com/hqCoPTQ.mp4
  22. So, I obtained this one, best bang for the buck: Rockville 12" Comes with a wired volume control remote But it was one inch too tall for the Space that the "KiaStein" has, in the trunk.
  23. Nevertheless, I really disliked the way that the internal equalizer manages the sound, mainly the Bass sounds; so by turning off the internal equalizer, I can use a "Bass" and a "Trebble" old fashioned controls that lets out a better sound but still, lacking of enough bass. Well, this is some sort of amplified tablet, that maybe is already doing too much for little money; so, I decided to do the same that I did on my beloved Subaru "BubleBeast" years ago: to install a self-amplified Sub Woofer in the Trunk, as the sound is really clear only lacking enough bass, in my own humble opinion.
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