So I'm looking into getting a replacement radiator, and would really like to stay away from plastic tanks, because my current one leaks from the seam where the bottom plastic tank meets the metal rad... and well... I think that design is absolute crap, so I want to go to a different design which may only be 95% crap.

 

In looking for radiators, I see the choices I can afford in aluminum are all the same rad from different sellers. I'd go ahead and buy one, but it appears they all have the tanks on the sides of the rad, and therefore, I wonder where the rad cap goes. I was looking at pics of GC8 turbo rigs, and while they seem to have a rad cap in the normal place, they also appear to have a second one over the turbo? Anyway, I was wondering if anyone knows whats up with this, and if I'd have to get an inline filler/cap for the top hose... or if theres a better solution... or if someone has one of these and got it working some ingenious way.

 

GC8 pic from google http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/Mlapekas/DSC_1545.jpg

 

Ebay radiator http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-RS-GC8-MT-TWO-ROW-CORE-ALUMINUM-CHROME-RADIATOR-10-BLACK-FANS-/330642089869?fits=Year%3A1999|Model%3AImpreza|Submodel%3AOutback&hash=item4cfbcde78d&vxp=mtr

The turbos only have 1 cap. Its on the coolant expansion tank which is part of the sealed (pressurized) system.

 

Nothin wrong with plastic end tanks. The one in your car lasted 14 year didn't it?

^^^^ that. If the stock one lasted 15 years an $80 replacement is gonna outlast the car. If you aren't racing the car or trying to get more performance out of the engine, a single row plastic tank radiator is fine.

Some of the turbo models do have to caps, but only one is pressure rated, the other just seals flat. Iirc, it's to help with bleeding. That being covered, you don't need an all aluminum radiator, the platic ones work fine as long as you don't steam them (overheat with low coolant). The aluminum ones leak too, and most can't be repaired any more than the normal ones. The only reason to go to them is to cool better, which you shouldn't be having a problem with.

the all metal rad in the bmw lasted 28 years and if i dident accidentally mess up the upper hose connection on ot that radiator would still be fine. i also dont like the plastic tanks.

Edited April 25, 201510 yr by sirtokesalot

If you want a high-quality replacement, spring for an OEM Calsonic or Nissens radiator. The original lasted you this long and the OE quality productions are MUCH better in terms of fitment, finish and durability. No, they aren't cheap. But the "Mishimoto" aluminum ones have been problematic and if you convert to a non-standard setup, realize that you will also lose the ability to buy "off-the-shelf" parts incase of an emergency. Just something to consider.