Guys,

 

Putting this thing back together,, was doing the timing belt.

 

Im a little confused on how to do the tensioner pulley.

 

I understand to move the tensioner back to the left  before tightening the mounting bolts.

 

But after I do that,, I should then  tighten the tensioner pulley.

(the belt is already on there)

 

So I leave the pully loose until I pull the pin on the tensioner?     Then tighten the pulley?   If I tighten the pulley,, it wont move when I pull the tensioner pin..  So yeah im a little confused as to this process.  I have a Haynes,,  doesn't help me understand this sequence ,, and how tight to put the bolt in the pulley.

Edited June 25, 201510 yr by xdeadeye1

The pulley should always move, if it sticks when you tighten it it's not assembled correctly.

The pulley moves even with the bolt tight. That's why it has that big sleeve in the center. If you tighten the bolt and the pulley doesn't move, the sleeve is either too short (allowing the bolt to make contact with the pulley), or the sleeve is in backwards. The flat of the sleeve goes against the block. Be sure to apply grease between the sleeve and the pulley.

Been putting this back together a little at a time and re building the front axles  too.   Going to swap sides with them..   I am actually just rebooting them with a kit from R.A.    So once I get those in today, Put back the air tube and all the vac hoses off of it,  Fill with oil and coolant..  

 

Its D DAY..!  

everything done,, get down to bolting on the throttle cables.

 

not sure if I have the right two bolts... I try em,,   one bolt falls on top of the block somewhere.. cant get a wratchet or a nut driver on them,,  other bolt wont go in,, seems cross threaded..

 

tried to use a dye on the bolt,, I think I got the wrong pitch ,, I tired a  6 mm 1.0 pitch,  and it seems worse.  SO   Fail sauce.

 

Everything,, I mean everything Is done  but that...  

 

Now I gotta suck it up and call Subaru and pay 5 bucks a bolt or something for repleacements..        otherwise  happy 4th.. I live to try another day.

Got it started and drove it.

 

(I stole 2 bolts out of my parts car I forgot about) 

 

Anyway a couple of questions.

 

1.   I think my valves  are ticking awful loud.. Sounds a bit like a diesel. Will this go away,, Is there something I should do?

 

2.  My Fans are not turning on.  My Freon apparently leaked out and I have no AC..   But I thought the other fan ran all the time.    ?

     I just put in new stant T stat and Water pump .

 

3.  The Temp gauge in the car stays at normal exact spot. Never gets hot.  Had it idle for a good while then drove 3 miles into town, got gas,, came back.. No change.  Coolant is near capacity, bottom hose and top hose are warm/hot.

 

4.  Should I check my fans somehow?  I checked fuses , all good.

 

 Thanks for input!!

Ok, the primary fan will only come on when the engine reaches a certain temperature.  The secondary fan comes on when the engine exceeds that temp to the second high temp point (think it's 30 degrees hotter (fahrenheit).

 

Unless you changed your heads those are hydraulic lifters. In my 96 OBS they made one hell of a racket while they reloaded and were completely quiet within 20 miles of driving.

 

There is a green connector under the dash, two plugs.  Plug them in.  Your fans will start cycling and it will tell if you if they are both hooked up correctly and working.  Do that "AFTER" making sure you plugged them back in snuggly.  It's easy to miss something when your putting it back together and not realize it.

Edited July 5, 201510 yr by lstevens76

Hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters on these make a hell of a racket until they get pumped up. Takes a little while sometime. If it doesn't stop after about 30 minutes you may have got some crud in the feed passage for the rocker shaft. This requires removing the rocker shaft assembly to clean the crud out.

 

Fans, as said above, make sure both are plugged in.

 

 

Yes, you have to be careful of the AC lines on the compressor. Flipping the compressor out of the way is easy enough, but it can also bend the blocks that mount the lines to the compressor, and cause a leak.