I am dismantling my 1996 Subaru Legacy with 2.2 single overheat cams.  I took the cover off and discovered that there is no timing mark on the crank pulley or either of the cam pulleys. Actually, there are 3 paint marks on both of the cam pulleys and none of them line up when I set the crank at TDC.  Two of the paint marks are white and one is pink (on each pulley).

 

So, how do I determine which paint mark is THE paint mark to use?  Or, alternatively, how do I set the valve timing without the timing marks?  Also, should one of the marks on the cam pulleys line up with the notches when I set the indicator mark on the end of the crank to its corresponding notch (with #1 at tdc)?

 

The reason I'm dismantling the motor is, the car regularly overheated and a hydrocarbon test indicated a blown head gasket.

 

Thanks,  JH

PS:  Yes, I looked VERY carefully for other marks on all of the pulleys.

The marks are there your just missing them. look at this pic to get an Idea on where the marks are and this thread to set the marks.

http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64 Look at the cam pulleys on the lip where the belt runs you will see little "hash" marks.

 

Trying to post pic.  As I said, there are no notches.  Each cam pulley has 3 painted marks - none of which line up with the crankshaft mark.

Edited July 8, 201510 yr by jijimmyjimjim

use something to remove the pint from the cam sprocket.

NOT coarse or heavy sand paper.

the hash mark is there you just don't know what to look for.

the cam has marks are on the front edge of the sprocket.

the crank hash mark is on one of the rear tabs, or reluctors of the sprocket.

 

always use the hash marks.

NEVER the ARROWS.

 

the paint is used by the inspectors at the factory

so every one knows the items have been inspected.

Edited July 8, 201510 yr by johnceggleston

You were RIGHT!  The hash mark was under the pink paint.  I couldn't see it until I scraped the paint off.  

 

Now my next question: there are two marks relative to the end of the crank - there is a small triangular indentation on the toothed sprocket and there is a indented line on one of the crank position sensor lobes.  Do I use the one on the lobe?

 

And lastly: which is the #1 cylinder? I think it is the cylinder in front on the left as I face the radiator. Is that correct?

 

Thanks for your help.  (Actually, I was about to get mad and say I knew what to look for  )

Now my next question: there are two marks relative to the end of the crank - there is a small triangular indentation on the toothed sprocket and there is a indented line on one of the crank position sensor lobes.  Do I use the one on the lobe?

 

Listen to what johnceggleston said...

 

always use the hash marks.

NEVER the ARROWS.

 

Pretend the arrows don't exist and use the dash/hash marks.

 use the indented line. The keyway on the crank should be down near 6 oclock.

belt timing is not set to tdc. but rather with all 4 pistons in the center of their stroke to avoid collision of the valves as you rotate the cam.  

Thanks for all your input. I got it covered.