Hello everyone, the title says it all:

 

Here are some more details:

 

Subaru: 1993 Legacy sedan L model

Problem: Automatic shoulder belt does work, but it is now common for it to stop on the track or not move at all.

What I've done to fix it:

 

1. Checked connection of FRONT LIMIT SWICTH & REAR LIMIT SWITCH: Both Work

2. Checked connection of door harness wiring: Works

3. Manually cranked the gears on the motor (motor was removed before process): Works, but a little tight in some spots

4. Checked the cable to see if it gets stuck: Works/moves nice

5. Checked motor by activating RELAYS all worked (belt moves faster when activating relay)

6. Checked all wiring connected to the motor, rear limit switch, and to door jamb striker: Works

7. Took apart the entire door and checked the latch wiring for the seatbelt: Works

8. Checked the gap between the track: No disturbance

9. Applied silicone grease to track and cable: No difference

10. The motor gets hot, but still works fine (the gears are all clean/not broken)

11. There is an error code #13 and #23 (both front limit switches on both sides but they have electricity)

12. The computer in the truck with the relays looks fine, nothing blown.

13. Passenger side belt works really good.

 

This is what i have done so far. Please do not tell me to forget about fixing it and stick with a manual belt. I like the automatic one. Can anyone help me determine what I need to do to fix my seat belt. I must get this fixed and no one knows what to do. I cannot find any replacement belts online or at any salvage yards.

 

Thanks, Aaron                              

Edited October 27, 201510 yr by Godzelly

godzelly,

 

Boy! You've gone at this problem from just about every angle possible!

 

My take on the issue:  I'd have approached it the same way you have, and one thing jumped out at me. The "motor gets hot".

 

It shouldn't get to that point at any time because its use is so limited.

 

I would continue sourcing a used belt system nation wide. (Larger wrecking yards have a national used parts search mechanism to locate what you need, and should be able to come up with an entire assembly for you.)

 

While waiting for results on the search, personally I'd be taking that motor apart, removing it from its gear box, and then cleaning its armature and brushes, bearings (replacing them?), etc., to see if it couldn't be resurrected.  You may have to grind off some rivets to get it apart (if its constructed that way) and after cleaning, etc., put it back together with small machine bolts and nuts.

 

I've done similar jobs on wiper motors, power seat  and HVAC fan motors, and even the tiny ones in power door lock actuators and windshield washer pumps with great success. Often parts aren't even required, just a good cleaning and lubing of shafts and bearings or gear boxes.

 

If, after you get it apart you don't feel qualified to tackle it yourself, try an automotive electrical shop that does these kind of rebuilds on starters and alternators and explain your issue. They may tackle the job just for the heck of it and get lucky. Good Luck!

I did take the motor apart and clean it, but I never really thought about it being bad because I assumed it was under a lot of stress to push the cable through the railing. I guess because it got so hot after 22 years it finally started to go bad. Why would the motor still run when I activate the relays? I noticed that the power window uses the same type of motor, if I cannot find a replacement shoulder belt assembly, could it be possible to get a window motor for that model and use it for the seatbelt? I put the motor from the passenger's side into the drivers side after cleaning it and it does the same thing. However the passenger side motor does not get hot and it works fine in the passenger seatbelt. Thanks for your help!

godzelly,

 

I wouldn't swap a window motor for the seat belt assembly motor .... unless they had exactly the same part numbers.

 

If you've swapped the belt motor for the one on the other side and things still don't work correctly, then replace the entire assembly. Don't dink around with a system that is supposed to help keep you alive in a crash. Try the wrecker parts locating system I suggested and get a good used one, or an entire door and then just strip the parts you need.

could it be in your ignition wiring?