So, I've got a 1990 legacy with an EJ22 motor that I think is in decent shape, but the car body has rusted away over the years.  A friend of mine blew out his transmission on a '99 outback today and wants to get rid of it, so I'm wondering if there are any specific difficulties in swapping my engine into his car.  Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks folks!    

Doable, but you'll need an intake manifold and engine wiring harness from a 95-98 2.2 with EGR.

 

Automatic Transmission won't swap between those years. Manual will, with some minor changes due to cable vs hydraulic clutch. You'll also need to swap the rear differential with the trans so the final drive matches.

If his trans is shot, why do you want to swap engines?  Or was that a typo?

Nope, not a typo.  I want to swap engines because his is an EJ25 and mine is an EJ22, which I prefer.  I also forgot to mention that his car has an automatic transmission and mine is a manual, but I'm assuming that it's not a big deal to convert, right?

 

Fairtax, I believe I can get an intake manifold pretty easily, though I'm not sure about a wiring harness and EGR.  I'm assuming that it's not just a plug-and-go re-wiring job, then?  Or is it pretty straightforward?     

Swapping the engine from a 90stick into a 99 auto is fairly straight forward. Your exhaust bolts right up. If you don't want a check engine light you want an egr intake, but any intake from 95-98 2.2 will work. Should plug right in no reason to swap the intake harness unless the harness on the new intake is damaged for some reason. Once you have the egr intake on you'll either have drill and tap a hole in the head for the egr pipe or do wt-dashs fix thats in here somewhere. He basically uses a couple brass adapters to hook up a 1/2 inch hose between the egr and the IAC inlet. I did this in my ej22 swap on my 99 outback and it works great.

Edited November 17, 201510 yr by mikaleda

Harness usually comes with the manifold. I think you can swap the 99 2.5 wire harness onto the 2.2 manifold if for some reason you can't get the wiring with the manifold.

 

EGR is built into the manifold, so you need a 2.2 EGR manifold or else the CEL will stay on all the time with EGR codes.

Pretty sure the 90 heads can't be drilled for EGR. I've read of a few people trying and drilling into the coolant jacket in the head. Just run a hose from the EGR valve to the intake tube and it will keep the codes away.

 

Pretty sure the 90 heads can't be drilled for EGR. I've read of a few people trying and drilling into the coolant jacket in the head. Just run a hose from the EGR valve to the intake tube and it will keep the codes away.

Makes sense, the second option is much easier and just as effective anyway.

I've done this very swap before. it's easy. The wiring will work from your 99 but you will need an intake manifold from a 95-98 Ej22. Wiring on the 95-98 Ej22 is the same. If it has EGR, you can incorporate it with no check engine light.

 

If no EGR, you run a hose from where the EGR  would otherwise meet the head, but connect it with a coupling on the hose to the IACV (There's a write up with pictures on here somewhere) and no check engine light.

 

You can always just cap the EGR if check engine light is not an issue.

 

And just remove the flywheel and replace with flex plate on the back.

Thanks so much for the advice.  I like the idea of running the hose off the EGR valve now that I've been warned about drilling into the coolant jacket.  I'll search for that write up on how to do it (or if anyone knows where it is then please direct me to it).     

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/?hl=hose

 

I've done it 3 times. Use a 3/4 inch brass T junction from Home Depot for about $4. An extra breather hose from one of the valve covers works fine. And 2 small hose clamps. I cut the EGR tube and clamp the hose over it. Then heat the end of the hose with a heat gun so it will fit over the 3/4 inch T. (Or add a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer fitting and a few more hose clamps) Connect it all and tighten your hose clamps and enjoy check engine light free driving!

Shoot, it turns out the guy got the car fixed and it wasn't even a transmission - the mechanic just pried on something under the car with a crow bar and now it works fine.  I guess I'm back on the prowl for a decent replacement body.  

Those 2.5s blow head gaskets and cook rod bearings pretty regularly. Can usually find a good clean one on the cheap with a little patience and perusing of craigslist.

Hell I just got one for free the other day because the front strut sprindgs were broken and the ej25d that was in it was tost (threw a TB) easy enough things to fix. A few hours and a couple hundred bucks later and its back on the road again.