So here's some quick background on car. It's a 95 legacy outback has phase 1 EJ22 in it. So I just replaced head gaskets and rebuild the internals of my heads re-using the old parts except I replaced the oil valve stem seals. I have an extremely noticeable tapping noise sounds like it's coming from near number 3 piston (back piston on driver side.

 

I've pulled the rocker arm assembly out since I've heard the noise and bled the HLA's twice now once to check for air then I thought they might be dirty so I did it again. But the noise doesn't seem to change at all. The lifters seemed to be in great condition was wondering if anyone has tips on what the lifters should look like. Maybe I don't know quiet what to look for there. Also wondering what the **** the noise could be if not the lifters.

 

I've let idle for an hour after each time I've had anything out of heads at a 1200rpm idle. To ensure good oil flow. And ran it from 50-30 with throttle closed 12 times to help new mechanicals in heads seat properly. But all to no avail

 

Another note worthy thing is that when in park not under load I can rev up to 3k and it will tick on the way up and the way down. But it won't make noise on idle or running at 3k with no load. But under load it ticks from 1450 up. Noise seems to stay the same after 4500rpms. Doesn't change in speed or loudness from 4500-6000.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated fellas just really need the car running ASAP

Auto trans or manual?

 

Have you disassembled the rocker shaft and made sure there are no obstructions in the oil feed port in the shaft?

 

Any other work done to the block? Oil pump resealed? Oil pan removed?

 

Rear piston drivers side is number 4.

Did you bleed down the lifters while they were out?

Thanks for the replies yes i bled down the lifters when they were out and from a simple visual inspection looked good.i didnt look through the shaft to check for obstructions would hooking pressure air through ports clear them of obstructions? I removed the rocker arm but kept two retaining bolts in place.no other work done to pump pan or anything besides basic oil change.

 

I just ran seafoam which claims to silence lifters but the tapping is still there.almoxt louder but probably just my imagination.

Oh and auto trans

When you took out the HLA's the second time were any shorter than the others or moved up and down more stiffly? Those would be the dirty ones.

 

When  you had the HLA's out did you clean them and bleed them under warm oil? That helps in the bleeding process.

Thanks for getting back rt yeah I did bleed them all while I had them out. With very warm oil multiple depressions. And no I even measured them with I micrometer they all were within a .0008 so I dunno I re-seated my valves when I did my head job and replaced the oil rings I'm just starting to wonder if the noise could be anything else. I hear it louder from underneath the car dunno if that helps.

I just pulled off the rockers again today and changed out a couple of HLAs and a new louder noise joined in with the light tapping noise so that makes me wonder if the HLAs I put in were bad (as they were just off some old heads) and maybe the original noise is something else... I'm at a loss

Almost thinking about pulling the heads off and inspecting the cylinder side valves for debri or anything. But that's another head and intake and exhaust gasket.

New noise went away but the tapping persists. Gonna change out the exhaust HLAs when wife gets home with car today see if that does anything. If it doesn't then I have to take head back off and check valve. Valve stem seal. And cam tolerance.

Does it have EGR? A loose fitting on the EGR tube could make a tap sound from the back of the head.

Thanks for the replies yes i bled down the lifters when they were out and from a simple visual inspection looked good.i didnt look through the shaft to check for obstructions would hooking pressure air through ports clear them of obstructions? I removed the rocker arm but kept two retaining bolts in place.no other work done to pump pan or anything besides basic oil change.

 

I just ran seafoam which claims to silence lifters but the tapping is still there.almoxt louder but probably just my imagination.

 

From doing this after many EJ22 installs with new/bled down lifters:

 

You can idle that thing forever and they won't pump  up.  What you need to do is go out and drive the hell out of it.  Get the engine rpms up to at least 4500, then let off, then rev up again.  (Like you're getting onto a freeway on ramp).   Trust me: if nothing else is wrong, they'll quiet down in a few miles.

 

Emily

I do have EGR i will tighten that up and see if that helps and I will take it on an aggressive drive right now also thanks you guys for the input.

So the tap is still there. I plugged my exhaust pipe last night to listen for leaks near engine compartment and heard a huge hissing. So when wife gets home today I'll be hopefully hunting down a bothersome exhaust leak instead of mechanical replacements.

Auto trans or manual?

 

Have you disassembled the rocker shaft and made sure there are no obstructions in the oil feed port in the shaft?

 

Any other work done to the block? Oil pump resealed? Oil pan removed?

 

Rear piston drivers side is number 4.

So how tight should EGR insert be. I have to use 17mm wrench and I'd say about an eighth to a quarter inch of the threads is still visible. Should this be tightened all the way to the head or?

I haven't done one in a while but I seem to remember the nut threading up almost to the head. 

If its leaking there you may be able to feel the exhaust pushing out with your hand. You certainly want to check that with the engine cold. Maybe have someone else plug up the tail pipe while you feel/listen around the EGR pipe. 

So I'm gonna loosen intake manifold and instal the EGR pipe. I installed after manifold was down so it didn't seat properly and that is the tapping noise I've been hearing. I removed it started motor same noise just a little louder. So I'm gonna get that thing seated better maybe put some compound on threads will research for possible leads but hopefully that is the noise

I've always been able to put them on with the intake bolted down, but those pipes are easy to bend if you're pulling up on the manifold with it still attached.

So it was a pain in the rump roast but I got it down to about 2 threads showing and a slight leak still but I put everything I had into tightening it. Anyone have any pointers on getting the EGR pipe to head completely seated.

Its a flare fitting so if the flare on the pipe didn't seat all the way against the cone in the head it could have deformed the flare when you tightened the nut. You may need to remove it entirely and make sure the ends are OK.

K I have a spare pipe so I might just swap that over.

I'll get to it in the next couple days and let you know what the outcome is. Hopefully noise free.

at least you know it's just a leak and not something that's going to fail/break down.