Fairtax4me Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Did you install the tensioner sleeve that came with the kit? There was a problem wih the cheaper kits a few years ago where the sleeve wasn't long enough, when the bolt was tightened it would lock the tensioner pulley in place. The pulley is meant to float because the tensioner piston keeps constant pressure on it. If the pulley is locked in place you'll have the same problem again. Install the sleeve that was on the original pulley. Edited March 4, 2016 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 I didn't get a tensioner sleeve? do you have a pic of what I need? I bought the timing belt kit off Ebay, it wasn't really a kit just what a seller packaged as a kit. consisted of a Mitso TB 304M belt, and the 3 idlers for $85. figured that was all that was really needed to keep this block going for as long as I can, since I don't think it's gonna go another T belt interval before something happens to the short block... Both of the tensioners I had were identical with Japan and NTN markings. there was no sleeve in the bolt hole on either. the bolt had 'room to wiggle' so to speak, but it was the same on what were both running motors so I figured that was right. ( this is my first dealings with new style tensioner )... The new tensioner I just bought has a sleeve that's a little bit longer than the body of the tensioner, bolt has no 'room to wiggle' and that seemed like I would have expected in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Here's the old type tensioner. Same idea on the new style though. The peice in the center goes through the large hole in the pulley (or on the end of the arm of the one piece tensioners). The flat goes toward the block and spaces the pulley away from the block. The bolt goes through the center. When the bolt is tightened it only tightens against the sleeve, it should not touch the tensioner pulley at all. On the cheaper timing kits sometimes the sleeve is too short in length, so the bolt tightens against the pulley and locks it in place. Grease should be applied to the outside of the sleeve and the inner surface of the hole in the tensioner so the tensioner can move easily. Edited March 4, 2016 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 I see, that makes sense now. That was deffinetly the problem.. I got it in place again, belt is now much tighter than it was. cogged idler went in ok and all marks are on the money, smooth side idler bolt got a little stripped before I noticed it was crossed.. of course, thats not a tap size that I have in my arsenal, and doing this after work when every place is closed. I had to give up for the night and I'll grab a tap tomorrow.. Gonna borrow a fresh bolt from the other engine just to make sure its good and then it should be good to go... Good thing I can catch a ride to work when needed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Back up and running. Don't know as I'm an expert on them, but I know ill get the next one done. faster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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