Swapping 85 ea82 carbed 4*4 with a 90 ea82 spfi don't know what model or if it was 4*4 do I need to swap clutch and pressure plate

You won't need to swap clutch or pressure plate as they'll be the same. 

BUT you will need to swap the front drive shafts to the larger 25 spline inner DOJ type that the MPFI and MPFI turbos run.

 

Everything else should drop in as per usual.

 

Cheers

Bennie

I'm swapping engines not transmitions so the axles shouldn't matter I bolted the engine to the trany but now when I turn the crank in gear it just turns won't try to turn the axles I know I should have changed the clutch while I had it out but I didn't have the cash I left the clutch and pressure plate that was already on the new spfi

Edited July 28, 20169 yr by pbilt

I'm swapping engines not transmitions so the axles shouldn't matter I bolted the engine to the trany but now when I turn the crank in gear it just turns won't try to turn the axles I know I should have changed the clutch while I had it out but I didn't have the cash I left the clutch and pressure plate that was already on the new spfi[/quote

 

 

Did you adjust your clutch, after the swap?

Opps botched the quote :-/

No IV never had to adjust a clutch on an engine swap before but this is my first time on a Subaru I usually swap clutch and pressure plate though but these are spendy

Edited July 28, 20169 yr by pbilt

No IV never had to adjust a clutch on an engine swap before but this is my first time on a Subaru I usually swap clutch and pressure plate though but these are spendy

Well, I would assume that the clutch worked, previously before the swap correct? Might want give it look.

No idea it's a junk yard engine I know the transmission worked I'll adjust the clutch tonight I just thought the inside diameter of the clutch might be bigger on the spfi then the input shaft on my old transmission pulling these engines is easy but it would still suck to have to do it again who knows the clutch could be toast and that's why it went to the junk yard there is 0 resistance in any gear turning the crank with a bar

Edited July 29, 20169 yr by pbilt

Low/high range lever been knocked out of one or the other gear so it's sitting in neutral?

 

Clutch fork mounted properly?

 

And I'm assuming the engine install was easy mating to the gearbox or did you have to use the bolts as clamps to get the bell housing to meet together (as in they didn't just slip on together once that sweet spot was found)?

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

 

EDIT: If the above doesn't work then it points to the junkyard clutch as the issue. I'd swap it for your clutch pressure plate, disc and flywheel from the old engine as you know it works. Also I'd recommend replacing the rear oil seal as a matter of course. You should know what Murphy is like!

Edited July 29, 20169 yr by el_freddo

Thanks for the help man. It was the clutch pulled it last night and swapped out that what I get for being in a rush and taking the easy way

Edited July 29, 20169 yr by pbilt