All, how difficult is this job?  I know there is a snap ring down in there and I am not sure I have the tools do get it out and back in again.

 

The all wheel has failed on the car and I am not getting a trans check light like when the Duty C went bad last time. Just the front wheels are spinning in this wonderful snow storm we are getting here. Things ya don't notice on dry asphalt. 

 

Thanks again,  Mark

 

If anyone needs the part numbers here they are for a 95 LegacyLS

31523AA420  $108.46 Transfer pack 

31337AA191  $6.43  Gasket

31377AA201  $3.61  O rings

 

Subarupartsforyou.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

cut power to the Duty C and you're instantly "locked" in 4WD. 

 

install a switch to open and close that wire and then you can control when you're locked or not and do the full repair when it's convenient. 

 

i prefer installing that switch anyway so i can lock it when i want. 

Also check the Rear Diff.  If one of the axle stub shafts popped out a bit, all of the power is going no where.  

I've had it happen more than once.

 

The hardest part of the clutch pack is getting all of the old gasket material off the tail shaft flange.

The C-Duty wire is very short as well.  Don't pull off the connector.

Oh,  never gave that a thought.  Car has an appointment next week to start checking different things out, I will let everyone know what we find.

 

Thanks,  Mark

Oh,  never gave that a thought.  Car has an appointment next week to start checking different things out, I will let everyone know what we find.

 

Thanks,  Mark

Don't let them replace or diagnose a failed rear differential, those never fail but some people unfamiliar with subaru's will assume they're the issue and swap them and it never fixes the vehicle. 

Replacing the clutch pack is not a bad job.  It is time consuming.  I did the job a few years ago. check out the

link below.  You may find that you need
the reduction gear.  With your symptoms
you may have a sheared off or damaged gear.   Look for deep grooving where the plates can
get hung up on.  This needs to be pressed
in and off.

31450AA260 GEAR COMPLETE-REDUCTION DRIVE

Http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121116-at-light-flashes-16-times-what-to-do/?fromsearch=1

Ok,  great photos.  I have a spare trans here that we are going to pull apart and check to condition of the gear reduction.  I had the similar problem with the car a few years ago and the only problem was the Duty C, so that is what got replaced. Could be that the basket and plates are worn now and that is what this problem is.  

Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you all.  So, last night the car went up on the lift and with the engine running and the car in drive we ran it.  The driveshaft to the rear does not turn.  With the engine off and the car in park we turned the rear tires and the driveshaft turned.

 

Our feeling is that the clutch pack in the tail housing has quit.  I have a spare trans that I will pull the tail housing off and swap it.

 

In the mean time to cover our options is there anything electrical we can check before I get around to the swap?

Remember there is NO check trans lite, the Duty C is about 2 years old and no electrical connections to the trans have been touched.  The car runs fine in front wheel drive and shifts great, just no all wheel drive.

 

Thanks,   Mark

Confirm you do not have the AWD fuse installed in the engine bay.