Ej22/Ej25 swapping 89' GL Questions

[alaskasubienthusiast]

I got a 89' 2 door GL hatchback EA82 and I am wanting to swap it for something with more power. My car is a 4 speed so I want to swap the trans while I am at it. I just got a 2004 manual forester transmission and I am deliberating about what motor to go for. There is a auto subie with a 2.2 for 300 dollars and lowish miles near by which is appealing, but I have heard that it is harder to find wiring diagrams for the OBD1 cars. As I understand it the hardest part of the swap is the wiring, so should I try to look for a newer 2.2 with OBD2? There is also a newer donor with a 2.5 nearby, but it seems like most people avoid swapping the 2.5 because of the head gaskets?

 

[el_freddo]

Ooh good questions. 

OBDI or OBDII - it doesn’t matter really - the wiring cut down is basically the same. Find the FsM that matches the engine and ECU to get the wiring diagrams and work out what’s what. Sometimes the Haynes manual will have a good pinout of the ecu with accurate wire colours too. 

The auto EJ22 can be told it’s a manual and work as such. You need to ground a certain set of pins at the ECU to “tell” it that it’s a manual… 

The EJ22 is bullet proof. Gen1s are non interference, Gen2s are interference. The difference is hydraulic lifters (gen1) and roller rockers (gen2). 

The EJ25 - it depends on which model. I’d avoid the DOHC EJ25D. But I’d do the EJ251 any day. Replace the head gaskets with the STi turbo EJ25 MLS gaskets and never look back. 

The EJ251 is a wicked engine with a flat torque curve through the rev range. It just feels like it keeps pulling! I know as I daily a Gen3 RX Liberty with the EJ251 and manual. 

I didn’t think the L series coupes came with a 4 speed, only the MY hatch - but this model runs an EA81 and I don’t believe they were still building them in ‘89. 

Gearbox will need custom mounts, probably need shift linkage mods and a custom tailshaft if you can’t work out a combination from OEM parts. 

I also recommend getting a donor vehicle that’s running. This way you know you have everything you need. Unless you know what you’re doing I don’t recommend mix and matching engines and ECU/wiring looms. 

On that note, the “rule” is phase 1 sticks with phase 1 engine management and vice versa with phase 2 gear; generally the ECU, wiring loom and intake manifold need to be a match and need to be same phase as the engine phase being used. 

Hope this helps

[bushytails]

IIRC, the ecu pinout table in the FSM is wrong, and you need to *not* ground the pin if it's a manual.

Does the DOHC even fit in the frame rails on an 89 hatch?  I know it doesn't on an 84.

The wiring isn't bad.  Takes a weekend if you're good with a wiring diagram.  The mechanical aspects of the wiring (mounting the computer, getting the harness to it, etc) takes as long as the actual wiring part.

I'd suggest keeping with an EA82 transmission, and using a bellhousing adapter and redrilled flywheel.  The 5-speed dual-range is pretty much the ideal old gen transmission.  Sticking with it will be direct bolt in (no messing with mounts, linkage, driveshaft, etc), and you get low range!  There's several people who make the adapters, like https://awdadventure.com/products/ea-ej-adapter-plate . Sticking with an EA82 tranny will be a much faster swap, and having low range is very, very nice.

 

[el_freddo]

DOHC EJs fit in an L series engine bay without chassis rail mods. 

The dual range gearbox is only good if you’re going offroad - or might have situations where towing up an incline requires traction and “leverage”.

If you’re building a road hugger, I’d go with the AWD box for better traction under acceleration. 

[bushytails]

If you're building a "road hugger", start with a cheese wedge! 

I've never actually seen the EA82 3-door in person, only pictures... I think they were pretty rare.

I'd put a dual range in anything I built, but I may not be everyone.