Loyale EA82 (non-turbo): Electrical puzzle involving horn and flasher circuit that I can't find mention of anywhere

[Loyalety]

I've searched the forum extensively but haven't found anyone with this particular issue. This '91 Loyale has been sitting for about two years. It was running fine prior to its long rest but now that the battery has been replaced and its up and running again, the following issues have cropped up:

• Turn signals don't turn on
• Hazards don't turn on
• Dash turn arrow indicators do not illuminate when flashers ought to be on
• The flasher relay is not clicking
• The 'Stop Lamp' dash light is lit (but brake lights and headlights are fine)
• Horn doesn't work

Here is what I've done to try to solve the problem:

• replaced flasher relay (no change, no power getting to the line per the test light)
• replaced all hazard/blinker bulbs (no change, still no blinkers, 'stop lamp' still lit on dash)
• tested all fuses in box and the four fusible links under hood (all were fine, the hazard/horn/clock fuse is fine, clock works)

I'm at a loss as to what to do next other than dig further into the dash and to trace the flasher wire back further (not fun). Prodemand is not helpful. 

Please ultimatesubaru, you're my only hope!

Edited Tuesday at 11:18 PM by Loyalety

[Loyalety]

I suspect there's corrosion in the turn signal switch.. from what I understand, the horn goes through that same switch and when I peek into it from the left side of the column it looks pretty nasty. Will update tomorrow after pulling the wheel and attempting to clean it up.

 

edit: turns out the actual electrical switch for the turn signals is located on the opposite side of steering wheel from the turn signal stalk. The nastiness I referred to on the stalk side was just a bunch of lithium grease and doesn't have any effect on the actual electric turn signal switch from what I can tell. 

Edited 2 hours ago by Loyalety

[88SubGL]

A wiring diagram would be extremely helpful. You tested the fuses and fusible links, not just by looking at them correct? You used a meter or test light?

[natalie42x]

Have you done a voltage drop yet? 
If you already know this then feel free to ignore
Find the ground for these switches and put one lead on the battery ground and one at whatever point these are grounded. Meter should read zero or close to it. If it is higher than .5 V (rule of thumb) than your problem is in the ground termination. If it is zero, than do the same thing but from the ground side of the switch to the ground termination. 
Repeat on the positive side as well.

If you suspect the switch is corroded as you say, than a voltage drop across the switch with the switch closed will tell you for sure. A non corroded switch should have zero voltage (potential difference) across the switch when it is closed, and ~12 when it is open.

[Loyalety]

I haven't done a voltage drop yet. thanks for the tip! Probably would have saved some time if I'm understanding the idea correctly. Need to find the ground for the turn signal switch I think.

I did get down to the turn signal switch and manually bridging (on a clean surface) the little circuit gaps that the slide mechanism closes when flipping the turn signal stalk does nothing. However, grounding the horn peg to the steering bolt does sound the horn. The stop lamp bulb is still on.

Here are a few wiring diagrams I found. I'm not good at reading these things :-( . I am using a test light btw.

 

the green/red, green and green/yellow wires with the little gaps between are what I'm talking about bridging.

 

I'm really hoping that wiring diagram might lead to a solution. Looking at it as someone who doesn't really know what they're looking at.. it seems important that the stop lamp warning light is on but the brake lights all work perfectly fine and only the hazards/turn signals are a problem. I'm just guessing though. I welcome any advice!

Edited 2 hours ago by Loyalety