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Pls Help, More Timing Belt Questions...

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Ok, for those of you who helped me with the little fiasco of a sheared oil pump bolt, THANK YOU@! I got the bolt out of the block with vice grips and then was able to replace it with the same size bolt I bought at my local hardware store, whoo-hoo! Got all the following installed: oil pump, water pump, idler pulley, and two tensioners.

On to be questions -- {background: car is an '88 DL 1.8L 4WD wagon EA82 non-turbo)

1) Ok, I lined up the three tic mars on the fly wheel (middle one of three) with the mark on the bell housing. Then I lined up the tic mark on the driver's side cam sprocket with the tic mark on the timing cover. When I installed the timing belt (wow is it tight!), it seemed to mis-align the cam tic mark slightly. Is this a big deal or do I need to redo? How precsie do the tic marks have to be lined up in general?

 

2) This is prolly a really stupid one, forgive me, I'm a newbie Subaru mechanic. Once I get the driver's side belt on, I have to turn the crank 360 degrees before I put the passenger side on, right? *****How do I move the crank? Is it ok to just use a socket wrench (7/8 or 22mm in size I think) to turn it? I'm afraid I'm gonna damage something. Grrrrr thanks everyone. I am almost done.

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Ok, for those of you who helped me with the little fiasco of a sheared oil pump bolt, THANK YOU@! I got the bolt out of the block with vice grips and then was able to replace it with the same size bolt I bought at my local hardware store, whoo-hoo! Got all the following installed: oil pump, water pump, idler pulley, and two tensioners.

On to be questions -- {background: car is an '88 DL 1.8L 4WD wagon EA82 non-turbo)

1) Ok, I lined up the three tic mars on the fly wheel (middle one of three) with the mark on the bell housing. Then I lined up the tic mark on the driver's side cam sprocket with the tic mark on the timing cover. When I installed the timing belt (wow is it tight!), it seemed to mis-align the cam tic mark slightly. Is this a big deal or do I need to redo? How precsie do the tic marks have to be lined up in general?

 

2) This is prolly a really stupid one, forgive me, I'm a newbie Subaru mechanic. Once I get the driver's side belt on, I have to turn the crank 360 degrees before I put the passenger side on, right? *****How do I move the crank? Is it ok to just use a socket wrench (7/8 or 22mm in size I think) to turn it? I'm afraid I'm gonna damage something. Grrrrr thanks everyone. I am almost done.

it should line up fairy close. but rember tey are just made out of plastic and are not super precise.

its ok to turn the motor from the crank bolt but evin easier to just line up the second pully with the lower timing cover mark (look oposite the one at the top) and tension the belts.

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it should line up fairy close. but rember tey are just made out of plastic and are not super precise.

its ok to turn the motor from the crank bolt but evin easier to just line up the second pully with the lower timing cover mark (look oposite the one at the top) and tension the belts.

Wow, you're kidding. Once I install the driver's side belt, I can leave it be, then simply turn the passenger's side cam sprocket so the small tic mark is pointed down?! Wow, that's seems waaay too easy. All the instructions I have seen say to turn the crank 360 degrees (one turn) and then put the other belt on. What you've described DOES seem to ultimately do the same thing -- just easier. Just want to be sure. :)

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Wow, you're kidding. Once I install the driver's side belt, I can leave it be, then simply turn the passenger's side cam sprocket so the small tic mark is pointed down?! Wow, that's seems waaay too easy. All the instructions I have seen say to turn the crank 360 degrees (one turn) and then put the other belt on. What you've described DOES seem to ultimately do the same thing -- just easier. Just want to be sure. :)

;) trust me on this one. its the easy way.

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Ummmm,.....

 

I wouldn't do it that way, since there's a fair bit of distance between the bottom cover notch and the cam sprocket.

 

Furthermore, it's documented by Subaru that the only camshaft position where all 4 valves are closed is the one where the timing hole lines up with the top notch of the rear cam belt cover. This is the only position where the camshaft is stable.

 

Install the bolt into the front of the crankshaft and use a 22mm socket and a ratchet to turn the crankshaft during the procedure.

 

I believe the absolute best way is to turn the crankshaft through several turns, stop on an even count, and re-check the alignment of the marks on the side just done. If the belt tension is off or if you've skipped a tooth (easy to do), the problem will become apparent at this stage.

 

Next, turn the crankshaft through an odd number of turns, align the marks for the side you're about to do, install the belt, and then repeat the checking procedure for that side. Note: the hole in the cam sprocket on the side you've already done will align with the notch at the bottom of the cam cover when you're working on the other side.

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Ummmm,.....

 

I wouldn't do it that way, since there's a fair bit of distance between the bottom cover notch and the cam sprocket.

 

Install the bolt into the front of the crankshaft and use a 22mm socket and a ratchet to turn the crankshaft during the procedure.

 

I believe the absolute best way is to turn the crankshaft through several turns, stop on an even count, and re-check the alignment of the marks on the side just done. If the belt tension is off or if you've skipped a tooth (easy to do), the problem will become apparent at this stage.

 

Next, turn the crankshaft through an odd number of turns, align the marks for the side you're about to do, install the belt, and then repeat the checking procedure for that side. Note: the hole in the cam sprocket on the side you've already done will align with the notch at the bottom of the cam cover when you're working on the other side.

:confused: why would you want to over complicate the belt instal with all that turning over of the motor?

 

how is the lower notch any harder to use than the top? you could probably figure it out with out the notch if you had to.

 

I do agree that after install that its good to turn it over by hand and verify your alignment and belt tension.

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:confused: why would you want to over complicate the belt instal with all that turning over of the motor?

 

how is the lower notch any harder to use than the top? you could probably figure it out with out the notch if you had to.

 

I do agree that after install that its good to turn it over by hand and verify your alignment and belt tension.

and turn the motor (crankshaft) in the clockwise direction, correct?

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why would you want to over complicate the belt instal with all that turning over of the motor?

 

how is the lower notch any harder to use than the top? you could probably figure it out with out the notch if you had to.

Please re-read the post. If you think about it, all will become obvious to you -- the required information is all there. I don't see what difficulty there is in using a ratchet wrench to turn the crankshaft several turns. It takes only a minute or two.

 

I believe in doing the job properly the first time, without taking short-cuts.

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Please re-read the post. If you think about it, all will become obvious to you -- the required information is all there. I don't see what difficulty there is in using a ratchet wrench to turn the crankshaft several turns. It takes only a minute or two.

 

I believe in doing the job properly the first time, without taking short-cuts.

right:rolleyes:

short cuts.

or usless exta steps.

depends on how you look at it.

I dont have time to spend spining a motor over for no reason. I get the same result by doing it a tried and proven method.

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