Hey Guys,

I gotta question. Me Suby has this rattle kind of sound. Kinda hard to explain. It appears to be comming from the drivers side. It dissapears on acceleration and shows up on decelleration and at idle. It's not lifter tick, that's on the other side where I'm trying to figure out which lifter is being stubborn. I did the ol' breaker bar to the ear trick and found that it's the noisiest in the area of the ditsy.

The cams are 180 apart, and lined up with the marks on the flywheel. I checked the timing and it's bouncing around 10 deg btdc. Vac guage is solid at 16" at 800 RPM.

 

Here's an MP3 of me Suby running. There'a lifter tick, an exhaust leak and a little breeze amongst the rest of the sound of the engine. Don't know if you can hear it or not.

 

Any ideas?

Wave4.zip

a loose timing belt on the driverside

 

 

will cause the distributor drive gears to click

(could cause the timing to vary also)

 

May be the reason behind the accell decell change.

 

Heat shields also will rattle like this.

Spark plugs threaded in snug? I just spent an hour last night searching for a rattle that ended up being the silly plug.

Ok, I'll check those out. Hummmmm loose t-belt..........

Yup, loose t-belt BUT, I have a stripped bolt(more like the heli-coil stripped out) that holds one of the tensioners in place (Drivers side). When I originally loosend the tensioner bolts they were very difficult to crack loose. When I went to retighten them after replacing the belts, one of the bolts wouln't tighten up properly. Thought that was rather strange, guess my fear was right. So, NOW what? It appears I cannot run with just one of the bolts cause I can move it by hand with the remainder bolt tightend as much as I dare.

Ok, I was talking to one of my co-workers and he sugested just going one size up and just tap the aluminium itself and forget the heli-coil. Would that work? For how long?