I am doing an axle swap on a 96 legacy wagon and It is fighting me every step of the way. I got the pin out and the axle nut off easily but the tie rod fought me, and the ball joint is still fighting me.

 

I took the bolt out that holds the ball joint to the spindle and jacked up the rotor and tried like hell to pry the control arm off it but it only budged about 1/4 inch. Anyone have any ideas? I replaced the 2 axles in my 90 in less time than it took me less time than it is taking me to get this one out. What gives??

 

Tips and tricks are greatly appreciated.

First off, I've never removed a tie-rod end to do an axle. You should have the whole front of the car off the ground, and then you can turn the wheels effortlessly anyway you want.

 

It sounds to me like the car has seen some snow, because the balljoint is slightly rusted into the knuckle. Take a breaker bar, wedge it in between the control arm and the spot under the knuckle where the bolt that you mentioned goes through to clamp down on the balljoint, and then beat the s#!t out of it with a hammer until it pops out. You won't damage anything, I've done this numerous times. Definitely lube up the balljoint before you put it back in the knuckle though.

It's a FL car....always has been. My 90 is a snow car and gave me no problem.

 

I tried hamering the CV axle out of the hub but still nothing! That sucker is in there!!! (turned wheel full lock)

It's a FL car....always has been. My 90 is a snow car and gave me no problem.

 

I tried hamering the CV axle out of the hub but still nothing! That sucker is in there!!! (turned wheel full lock)

I would reccommend going to your local AutoZone and borrowing a "pickle fork" or the other tool to break the ball joint and tierod end.

 

I had to take the entire hub/spindle off of my 93 legacy and take the axle and the spindle to a garage and have it pressed out. I was using a big hammer and no luck with the beating routine. It was no big deal as I was replacing the wheel bearing anyway and the garage had to press a new one in.

 

If you have to go this route just use a sharp object and scratch reference marks for the alingment bolts or use some whiteout and paint some reference marks before you remove the strut bolts.

 

Greg

It's a FL car....always has been. My 90 is a snow car and gave me no problem.

 

I tried hamering the CV axle out of the hub but still nothing! That sucker is in there!!! (turned wheel full lock)

 

You may need a tool like this to get the axle out of the hub...

 

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7208A.html

I have done axel shafts a few times on these. I have NEVER been able to separate the ball joint without using a pickle fork, and even with the pickle fork have actually had to get a "bigger" hammer. I have done dozens of other cars and have never had the trouble separating the ball joint as I have with the Subie........

 

Once separated, I have a long bar which I tuck under my arm to pry down and get the lower A arm out of the way, works good for getting things back in place as well. By the way, the pickle fork generally destroys the rubber in the ball joint.

swi66

I only had to do it once so far. Went by the book (disconnected the sway bar link and the control arm rear mount) w/o any problem.

I got it. It was rusted. I couldn't really wack the lower control arm hard last night because it was llllaaaaatttttteeee. I got it this morning though.

 

I had to rent a 3-jaw puller to get the axle out of the hub. I also had to grind the inside of the spindle where the ball joint rests because of the amount of rust.

 

Finally got and it is working fine. Thanks.