February 6, 200521 yr Searching previous posts instructs me to check the axle nut torque. Do I torque to 145 ft-lbs and leave it there or back it off about an eighth of a turn? What is the best method to keep the axle from turning during torqueing of the nut?
February 6, 200521 yr Searching previous posts instructs me to check the axle nut torque. Do I torque to 145 ft-lbs and leave it there or back it off about an eighth of a turn? What is the best method to keep the axle from turning during torqueing of the nut? the easiest way to hold the rear wheels when torqueing a rear axel nut is to set the parking brake and put the car in 1st gear/Park. Torque the nut to the specs listed and leave it there.
February 6, 200521 yr Author the easiest way to hold the rear wheels when torqueing a rear axel nut is to set the parking brake and put the car in 1st gear/Park. Torque the nut to the specs listed and leave it there. Thanks. I'll give it a try in about 12 hours. It's time for bed soon.
February 7, 200521 yr Author the easiest way to hold the rear wheels when torqueing a rear axel nut is to set the parking brake and put the car in 1st gear/Park. Torque the nut to the specs listed and leave it there. Bummer. The axle nut was already at or above 145. With the brake removed the wheel continues to make noise while turning it with a breaker bar and socket on the axle nut in the same spot each time the wheel turns. Looks like the bearings shot and the brakes are badly worn. I guess its time for both to be done at the same time. The car has 90K on it. Should I use the taper roller bearings from a Legacy or WRX instead of these whimpy Forester bearings? Should I consider replacing any of the other bearings while I'm at it or at least the other rear?
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now