On two cars that is. Both donor car and (86) and restoration project car (85) when I did the final diff swap for the tranny swap the left rear axels would not come off the wheel stub. I had no problem getting them loose from the diff on both sides, and both cars right rear axels came clear out for me, no prob.

 

Whats up with this. I new at wrenching on Soobs. I took a large brass punch and smacked the crap out of them with a BFH but no luck on the left. Worked fine everywhere else.

 

I have not tried letting penitrating oil yet. Doubt that I can get it to work into the rusty dry splines.

 

By the way, that is my guess. Rusty and dry. Every place where old oil leaks have kept things messy, things slipped right apart. For some reason both cars have dry oil free drivers side rear wheel to axle joints. And they are both froze on.

 

Ideas?

Pyro

Loose the punch and just tap the joint with the hammer. Hit it on the radius end and try to hit it in the direction that you want it to move in. Turn the axle a few degrees after every hit.

Loose the punch and just tap the joint with the hammer. Hit it on the radius end and try to hit it in the direction that you want it to move in. Turn the axle a few degrees after every hit.

 

Thanks, that worked. I wanted the axles off the donor car for spares. Splines had a nice even coat of rust. I'll try some penetrating oil next time.

 

I figure that rears last quite a bit longer than fronts. What with the rear being rusted in like that I'm wonder could those be original? Twenty years? Doesn't seem possible. The '86 has well over 200 thou.

 

Anyway, got it off. Ruined the grease slinger, but oh well.

 

Pyro

Heat and muscle. The only way you are gonna get it apart.

My first rear axle that ever got changed on my wagon was 4 years ago. IT took 3 days to get the passenger side rear axle off. And 3 bottles of Mapp Gas and and 5 lbs of propane. Lots of busted knuckles, but it'll come.

 

Another trick, kinda dangerous, when you get it heated up, spray some PB blaster on there. it kinda vaporizes and it helps it creep into those tight spots.

 

OR just swap out the whole rear suspension. take off the two trailing arm bolts, pop the inside pin on the axle, undo the strut and drop the whole assembly

yeah once you remove the roll pins you can shoo the PB in the hole where it will get to the splines. whack with a 3 lb hammer, rotate whack rotate whack

 

sounds like you goit it but PB is magical stuff!