GLCraig

With the XT6 automatic transmission and the rest of the 4EAT transmissions, there is one shaft that runs from planetary gears in the front of the transmission to a pinion gear, near the back end of the transmission. That pinion gear drives two things. 1. The pinion shaft and gear for the front differential. 2. The rear output clutch pack. The 4EAT transmissions do not have a center differential. They use clutch pack that is modulated by a computer, to send power to the rear differential. The Main shaft of a 4wd 5-speed which includes the pinion gears for the front differential, and the transfer case. The Main shaft also includes the accommodations needed for the forward gears, reverse gear, the 1st-2nd gear syncro, and the speedometer drive gear. The 4wd is engaged by syncro that is attached to the output shaft of the transmission. So the parts from the automatic transmission cannot be added to manual transmission for make it AWD.

Everything is completely different between the manual and automatic transmission. For the low range with manual transmissions, Subaru added the gear reduction to the input shaft of the transmission.

Looks like there's some debate on how many filters and where they are located. The FSM for my 2009 EJ257 shows two of those filters. One filter is on the top of the right head, supplying both the turbo and the AVCS for that side of the engine. The other filter is on the front of the left head. Your Forester maybe different since it has the EJ255. Two summers ago, I had the intake off of mine, so I inspected the filter on the right head. Looks pretty clean considering it had about 155K at that time. Remember to change your oil kids,

Can't go this year, the tread separated on one of my snow tires for my GL and I'm having knee surgery on 12/5 too.

Metric class 8.8 is the equivalent to grade 5 and class 10.9 is the equivalent of grade 8. Class 10.9 will be more than enough overkill for your needs.

You'll have a lot better luck finding an intake manifold for a Hitachi Carburetor. I'm not sure if anyone even made an adapter for a carter-weber to weber conversion.

On the top of the engine block, near the power steering pump, there will be either a "EJ22" or "EJ25"; cast in the block. EJ22 is a 2.2 and EJ25 is a 2.5

When you pull off the valve covers there are a couple of things to look for. Look at the lock nut for the rocker arm adjustment. Hydro lifter engines will have locking tabs to keep the nut from backing loose. Look at the push rods. Hydro lifter engines push rods are steel. Solid lifter engines have aluminum push rods with a steel tip.

I've replaced that cable once, but it was over 15 years ago so my memory isn't the best. You need to pull the plastic trim from the door sill and go from there. You may need to pull out the back seat too.

I thought I was bad with 53k on my 09 STI and since December I've been driving my 84GL about 85% of the time; except for that road trip to Vegas for Christmas. I'm about to do the first brake job on the GL since WCSS6.

Legacy Outback struts are longer than Impreza struts. You can use the Impreza struts but you'll end up lowering the ride height and inch or two.

The hub that the flywheel is bolted to, is pressed on the crankshaft, so Subaru used two seals.

I think I can make it for the whole weekend this year. It just depends on how busy things are at work at that time. I could schedule some time off but management like to cancel vacations at the last minute when things get busy.

1. Yes. The rear diff is pretty easy to get to. The transmission and front diff share a common drain plug. You will need to jack yup the car to get to it. Unless you are really skinny and have long arms. 2. Pretty much any 75w90 GL5 will work. My preference is Redline 75w90 NS, this is not the same as their regular 75w90. The 75w90 NS dose not include the additive for limited slip diffs. Without the additive, the syncros in your transmission will work better. 3. If you have the tools, go do it yourself. As for you trip to Arizona, this is route I've taken in the past. http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=I-5+S&daddr=40.47372,-120.2752+to:US-93+S&hl=en&geocode=FcBArgId0VCr-A%3BFXiUaQIdAL_U-Cl97uOzyt2dgDHl6Cfs6Wa7BA%3BFQB-JQIdojYp-Q&mra=ls&via=1&sll=39.791655,-112.346191&sspn=9.248935,26.784668&ie=UTF8&ll=40.430224,-118.87207&spn=9.162874,26.784668&z=6

The rear differential has a vent in that area. If the differential was over filled the last time it was serviced, it's possible for the oil to drain out of the vent on a steep enough of an incline.

$1300 is quite a bit high for just a clutch job. Did they do any other work while they had your Subaru?

You do not need to discharge the A/C system. Just unbolt the compressor, and unplug the electrical connection(s), then sit the compressor out of the way.

The Forester wheels should work just fine. The biggest disadvantage will be the added weight of the steel wheels vs. alloy wheels. Also the Steel wheels will flex a bit more that an alloy wheel too. If you are just getting into RallyX, I would not worry about it. Learning to drive is more important than anything else.

If it's an EA81T, there's a possibility that the oil is dripping on the cross over pipe to the turbo. Then again, the OP dose not mention if his is turbo or N/A. My question is why dose he want to replace the pump just for an oil leak? You can buy new o-rings and gasket for the pump.

Many of the bushings are the same. You can probably find more detailed info at http://bbs.legacycentral.org/

IIRC 21 spline is for EA81 2wd/4wd and EA82 N/A 2wd. 24 spline is for EA82 4wd and 2wd turbo.

To get the camshaft out, you will need to split the block in half.

Just one day? It's not worth the drive if it's just one day.

Pretty much, you will need to swap the distributor too.

Since you're in Hillsboro, check the America's tire, just off of 185th. The last I heard they were pretty reasonable.