GLCraig

Isn't there a large portion of your country under water at the moment?

I rallyX a 84GL for a few years, you do not need low range.

Subaru changed the 3rd and 4th gear ratios beginning with the 83 model year. So the speed in 4-low will depend on what year the transmission is from.

The vacuum line that connects to the distributor should connect to the carburetor at the other end. At the carburetor, the connection should be upstream of the throttle plates. At idle you should have about zero vacuum and the vacuum should increase as you open the throttle.

On my way home from Vegas, a couple of weekends ago. I got to enjoy driving 100 miles in these conditions. At least I got some great gas mileage by keeping the speed down.

Okay I ran into a similar problem recently with my '84. I my case it was a bad connection between the dash wiring harness and the engine bay wiring harness. Now your case maybe different so I'm going to give you a few tips to track your problem down. 1. The head light circuit of this vintage Subaru, uses a common +12vdc and a switched ground. This is the opposite of most other cars. 2. Since the common is the +12vdc and your high beams work, the headlight relay is not the problem. 3. Disconnect all of the headlight when tracking down the problem. 4. If you do not already have them, get a test light and a paper clip. 5. Okay with the headlight connection, when facing the headlight from the front of your Subaru, the left pin is the common, the middle pin is the low beam, the right pin is the high beam. To confirm this what you want to do is, disconnect the connectors from the headlights. Turn the ignition switch to the on position and turn off the headlight switch. At either headlight connector slip the paper clip into the left socket of the connector. Connect the test light to the paper clip and touch the probe end to a ground. If the test light comes on, you found the +12vdc common. Now turn on the headlight and turn on the high beams. Now probe the right socket of the connector, the test light should come on since we know that the high beams work. Now switch to low beams and probe the middle socket. Your test light should not come on or it may be on very dim compared to the high beam. Leave the headlights on low beam to continue testing. 6. Once you know which socket of the headlight connector is for the low beam. Take a look at the wire that it's connected to. Now go and look under your dash, behind the fuse box, you should see where the wires come in from the engine compartment. You should see a wire with the same color combination as your low beam wire. Follow that wire to the group of connectors in that area. 7. With your test light still connected to the paper clip and the paper clip pushed in the common socket of the headlight connector; probe the low beam wire on both sides of the connector under the dash. When you probe that wire on the engine compartment side of the connector and the light comes one, you probably have a bad spot in the wire between the headlight connector and the under dash connector. If the test light dose not come on, test on the other side of the connector. If the test light comes on, unplug and inspect the under dash connector. If the test light dose not come on, continue probing that wire up stream until it turns on.

The link that's in Turbone's post above is for a shop in Portland.

Did every thing work before you did your engine swap?

There is only one fan for the climate control system. Near the heater core, there is a divider panel that directs the air to either the floor, vents or defroster. We would need to know what year and model subaru you have, to help figure out what's wrong.

I'm coming

There was a SNAFU at work and I may not make the trip I should know for sure by Friday night.

Here it is.

I have a set of EA82 SPFI pistons buried somewhere. I'll try and dig them out this weekend and take a picture.

IIRC, on the face of the piston there will be either an A or a B stamped on it, with a diamond outline.

Things are coming along with the wagon. It's fairly road worthy but there are a few thing still to do. I will be commuting with it the week before the meet, to give it a good shakedown. Thanks for the offer but I'll probably get a room somewhere around Puyallup.

Replace the drive line u-joints. Replaced the oil pump o-rings. New battery cables. Tracked down an electrical gremlin. Started to replace a torn DOJ boot but the dealer sent me a CVJ boot instead. Put on the snow tires. With any luck, a LSD swap this week.

Looks like I have an excuse to get the old wagon running again.

Was the bypass bridge around hoover dam open when you were down there?

That's the route I took to Phoenix. But this is the route I took back. http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=N+Black+Canyon+Acc&daddr=39.5367,-119.80298+to:41.49461,-120.57378+to:I-5+N&hl=en&geocode=FQqv_gEdPFFR-Q%3BFTxIWwIdnPPb-Cmv6VIvTkeZgDFE2BFmNRQmfw%3BFVIoeQIdrDDQ-CnJqGPVxpDLVDFaJ0N1z1S59g%3BFW92vwIddg6t-A&mra=dpe&mrcr=0&mrsp=2&sz=10&via=1,2&sll=41.503435,-120.463715&sspn=0.569777,1.674042&ie=UTF8&ll=39.095963,-112.631836&spn=18.864653,53.569336&z=5

The switch in the picture if for a non-tilt column. Sounds like you need one for a tilt column.

I'm in a similar situation. My high school class is having it's annual campout this weekend. So I'm leaving the show before 3pm and driving 5 hours to party with people I've know for up to 30 years.

Rob, you maybe that much of a penny pincher but I'm not.

Do I need to bring quarters for the showers? As we all know, some places charge for the showers and other don't.

2009 STI, 37k