86subaru Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 is it nesessary to have heat shields on if the cat is gone ? the heat shields around the first cat coming down from a 88 turbo full time 4wd a/t wagon . since there will be less heat, , the heat shield that is around the pipe it self , and also do you think a muffler shop can weld the pipe on without taking the pipe off the motor ,from underneith ? or the top side , thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 just have them fabricate a piece of sheet metal between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the axle boot. the axle boot is important to keep the heat off of it. also, see if any of these exhausty shops have header wrap, foily fiberglass material that can be wrapped around the pipe itself, like they would use on v-8 headers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 ok, i want to be able to burn rubber on dry payment ,when i am done ,and get 25mpg city over 30 highway ,with a a/t full time 4wd turbo wagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 Jim, I believe Miles may have missed that this is the down pipe from a turbo as he says "fabricate a piece of sheet metal between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the axle boot. the axle boot is important to keep the heat off of it" This is true if the pipe is below the axle boot as would be on a non turbo engine, your's will be more or less above and behind the boot. I agree with you the cat is where the main heat is being generated, without it and most of the effect is minimized plus the clearance is larger as the pipe is not as large in diameter as the cat. Still I use a header wrap as Miles suggests http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1351&prmenbr=361 Along with a small piece of sheet metal (~ 4 x 6 inches) held off the pipe by a strap and onto the pipe with a radiator hose clamp. I can email you a picture if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 yes i am using heat tape , thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karinvail Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 I use a header wrap as Miles suggests http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1351&prmenbr=361 Along with a small piece of sheet metal (~ 4 x 6 inches) held off the pipe by a strap and onto the pipe with a radiator hose clamp. I can email you a picture if you like. I'd like a picture if you can - my husband did my exhaust and removed the cat - I asked for a heat shield there to protect the CV boot, but so far we haven't done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 problem i am having is the bolts on the motor side [ turbo ] are way to tight , any easy way to get them off ? 4 -14mm bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 25, 2005 Author Share Posted March 25, 2005 hey karinvail did you see a difference after the big fat cat was gone ? hp or mpg , seems my bolts will not break loose , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted March 25, 2005 Share Posted March 25, 2005 I'd like a picture if you can - my husband did my exhaust and removed the cat - I asked for a heat shield there to protect the CV boot, but so far we haven't done that. Karin, the exhaust routing on Jim's turbo motor is significantly different from your carb'd motor's, at least until the midpipe (where the second cat lives). His pics might not be very illuminating. Jim, I would not worry too much about the heat shielding, except, as Miles warns, near the cv boot. I would be careful about "header wrap" as it tends to trap moisture/gunk and corrode the underlying pipe. (Maybe the current stuff is better than what was available in the 80's.) A good muffler (wo)man can do wonders, but I would ask them first as to which way works better for him/her. And are you having trouble with the turbo to downpipe nuts? Either way, penetrant oil, heat cycle, oil, heat... rinse, repeat. They are probably not tight, just corroded/galled/welded together. Patience is useful... or be ready to replace the studs. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 26, 2005 Author Share Posted March 26, 2005 yes i tried everything , they were off a few weeks ago , different nuts were put back on ,so i gave up for now , wife needed car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted March 26, 2005 Share Posted March 26, 2005 yes i tried everything , they were off a few weeks ago , different nuts were put back on ,so i gave up for now , wife needed car Did you have trouble taking them off a few weeks ago? And what kind of "different nuts" were put back on? Most exhaust manifold nuts, especially turbo and other high-heat, are a special alloy that tends not to rust and doesn't heat-weld or gall onto the studs. If you used plain ol' nuts from the hardware store you might have shot yourself in the foot. (I'm glad that *I* never did that! :rolleyes: ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 26, 2005 Author Share Posted March 26, 2005 not rusty , were subaru nuts , my helper put them on while i was working on something else :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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