well, im still atryin to get this rough idle thing worked out. So, anyways, today i checked it for codes. nothin has tripped the cel, but thought why not. well, without the connectors connected, light blinks rapidly 5 times, then delay, then 5 times, and so on.. i assume this just means o2 sensor is workin. well, with the connectors connected, i get 2 codes.. one is 11 and the other is 13. both appear to be "crank angle sensor" related.. so, anyone have any experience with these codes? would a faulty crank angle sensor cause a rough idle? Thanks...

sooo anyone with any ideas regarding the 2 crank angle sensor codes.. apparently the crank angle sensor is in the disty. it starts fine, which i think wouldn't be the case if the disty was faulty. i guess im just wondering if something else could be causing the code 11 and 13 to come up.. thx

a bad wire to the starter from the computer may be the cause, but the factory troubleshooting info is here:

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

good luck - the last time my car threw either code, I had a no-start condition, so I can't help you much

ya, im thinkin im just going to clear the codes and see if it pops up. ive never had the cel come on, i was just checkin to see if anything had been stored. seems to start fine.. when cold fires up after about 1.5 -2 sec with the key turned. when warm starts up instantly.

fires up after about 1.5 -2 sec with the key turned. when warm starts up instantly.

 

1.5 seconds is a long time. My ea81t and friends ea82t start in much less than a second even when totally cold.

My CEL came on the other day, finally got around to checking the codes yesterday. With no connectors together I get a 7, which keeps repeating (haven't the foggiest what that one means). With the Read connectors together I was getting 35, 11, 13 (purge valve, crank angle and crank angle). I checked the purge control solenoid and sure enough it was gone. Fortunately, I had one on the shelf to replace it with. I couldn't find anything on the 11 and 13, so decided to clear the codes and see what happened.... but I can't clear them. The purge solenoid cured the CEL, but I can't get the codes to clear. I believe I read that with the engine running I should connect both the "test" connector (green) and the "read" connector (white), which I did. I tried connecting and disconnecting them with it running, connecting them with it running then shutting it off and disconnecting them. Still have the same codes. Suggestions???? Oh, it's my '92 Loyale, SPFI, AT, wagon.

I don't remeber what the "approved" method is, but I have read here that disconnecting the battery and depressing the brake pedal (electrical drain from brake lights???) is supposed to do the job.

Thanks, I'll give that a whiz this evening.

IIRC to clear the codes, connect the green & white, then go for a drive. If the CEL flashes, you're all clear. disconnect them at your next convenience. If it comes on solid, look for a new code for something that's wrong.

 

Although disconnecting the battery should also work.

 

I also believe the 7 short flashes is like an 'all clear' type of thing.

I tried the "disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and hold down the brake pedal a few moments" method and it worked. I think hoozie may be correct, I think the 7 is just an identifier or no trouble code.

 

Thanks for the help!!

Connecting both sets of connectors with the engine running should clear any stored codes.Code number 7 means it is a, AT and meets Federal and Canadian standards.

I tried that. With the engine running, connected then disconnected both. Codes were still stored. So, with engine running, connected both then shut off engine (key to off) then diconnected both. Still had codes. Go figure?? But, disconnecting the battery did work, whether holding the brake pedal helped or not, couldn't tell ya.I thought the 7 would be something like that, thanks Cougar. If I recall, my MT '91 always blinks a 5, but it's been a while since I looked.

5 flashes is for manual trannys.