KStretch55

I think Cougar and Baja are on the right track.

Sounds like baloney to me.

Sorry folks, but the term "rallying" implies that you are involved in a Rally. If there's no Rally happening at the time, it's just wreckless driving. Be careful that you don't give "Rallying" a bad name.

Your "rust proofer box" does the same thing as a sacrificial anode, which in reality isn't much, on a car. I wouldn't waste the money to have a car undercoated once it's been driven. All you'll end up doing is sealing the corrosive agents into the cracks and crannies. As someone else noted, it's best to just make sure you give it a really good and thorough fresh water rinse periodically, at least every couple of months. But, do it when the weather is warm, or you can park it in a heated garage, so it can dry thoroughly, too. One of the best anti-corrosion steps you can take is to make sure all of your bonding strap connections are tight and clean and your negative battery terminal is clean and solid.

What "rally" were you in at 4am??

I use a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth through the timing mark hole. Sounds like your bolt is severely over-torqued. Good luck.

You have to put your foot on the brake to shift out of park. That is a design feature. Foot on brake, push shift button under your thumb and shift. You should not need to push the interlock button that is mounted on the console. That is used if there is no battery power or key available and you need to shift it to nuetral, such as if it's been wrecked and getting towed or something. Shifting from Park to Reverse, Reverse to Park and downshifting will require you to push the thumb button. Upshifting can be done without the button. Also, a side note, you should find that you can shift from Drive to Nuetral with a firm push on the shifter. That is another design feature for safety. In a collision the momentum of the shifter should automatically shift the transmission into neutral.

Owners manual strictly forbids putting a hitch on EA82 models. Probably for the reasons already mentioned (not enough power or brakes, as well as fairly light drive train). So, be careful! I don't think I'd pull anything much over a few hundred pounds. 1000 at the very most.

I have a 92' Loyale wagon, AT, 4wd. I like it fine, as do my daughters. Yes, the AT would be nice if it had a 4th gear, but I only really miss it on hills. I had a '91 MT Loyale wagon until recently, too and my son preferred it. I prefer ATs just cuz' I'm a lazy driver, but both are nice. My first Subaru was a used 87' GL-10. Personally, I'd stay away from the turbos. IMO, the additional power produced is not enough to make up for the additional risk and maintenance involved due to the extra heat load put on both the oil and cooling systems, as well as the load on the head gaskets. I know a lot of folks really like them though.

Timing belt? Does the distributor rotor turn when the starter is operated?

I've got some of my '91 Loyale wagon after my son rolled it about a month ago. As soon as I find the disk I'll put them on the gallery. He and 3 friends all were wearing belts and all were unhurt, thank God. Luckily the car ended up perched on a stump right side up. Took a lot of work to get off the stump. Had several people tell us we should just call a wrecker, cuz' we'd never get it out with my pickup. But, once we got the stump out of the way and cleared some brush, it pulled right out. I started it up and he followed me home, about 30 miles. Was a bit cold and airy, but drove fine.

Check the rubber gasket on the cap for splits or cracks. If there are any they will allow the coolant to flow out of the radiator when the coolant expands, but will not cause a seal and allow the coolant to be sucked back through the center of the cap.

True, true! Unfortunately, we legislate the natural selection process out of the gene pool. The saying used to be, "Stupid Kills", now it's "Stupid Kills, just not enough!"

Don't forget that if you have larger than stock tires you are actually going further and faster than indicated by your odometer and speedometer. So, when you figure out mileage you need to take that difference into account. I used to have a shortcut to the tire size difference calculator someone posted, but I've lost it. I think my '92 Loyale AT wagon lists 155 somethings as the stock tire and I'm running 185/80-13s on it. If memory serves me correctly that was a difference of somewhere around 8% (don't quote me). So, when I figure mileage, I have to first add 8% to my tripmeter. Makes my mileage around 25 - 26 usually.

Geez, sounds like WA is getting infected with laws that lack common sense coming up from California and West Oregon!!

You can try disconnecting the hoses from it and pushing some stiff wire through it, carefully.

Definitely not. Coolant expands and pressurizes the system as it gets hot, regardless of whether there's a headgasket problem. Just moreso if the hot exhaust and/or compressed gases are going directly into the coolant.

Have you overhauled the carb?

I have had mine bind up if I'm leaning against them for some reason when they try to retract. Disconnecting the emergency catch to take the tension off and opening and closing the door has always brought it back to normal.

You guys must be talking about a different Lolo Pass. I know of the one between Montana and Idaho, where Lewis and Clark crossed the Bitterroot range. Where is the one you are talking about? Sounds like around Portland somewhere.

Here's a related question: Are the CB frequencies the same as the FRS frequencies. I remember that walkie talkies used to be the same frequencies. Most single channel walkie talkies were sold with CB channel 14 crystals in them. But that's been 20+ years ago and now with the FRS (Family Radio System, I think?) I'm wondering if I can use my FRS walkie talkies to talk to a CB if I put one in my car?

So that's what that allen wrench crank is for!! I'd read somewhere that you could open/close a stuck sunroof with it, but wondered why they were in cars without a sunroof, too. Learned something new today, now I can go back to sleep!! Thanks!!

It's back! But, on the good news/bad news side. Good news...I have a spare ignition switch to throw in it. Bad news.... the "spare" is out of my 91 that my son rolled up in the mountains yesterday! Fortunately, nobody was hurt and we were able to pull it out today. Took all day from about 11 this morning till 8 this evening. Had to jack it up and hack a stump out from underneath it, then cut a path through the brush to the bank up to the road. But, my trusty 85 F-250 pulled it up about a 12 foot bank without even really breathing hard. Probably rolled twice, lots of broken glass and sheetmetal damage. Broke part of the upper radiator neck off, but left enough to reattach the hose. Filled her with water, checked the oil and started her up. Still runs like a champ! Drove it home about 30 miles, squinting through a checkered windshield. I'll salvage everything good and scrap the poor hulk.

Could be gunk that the Seafoam worked loose? I think I'd do a couple of fluid changes too.

Any quality plug in a modern vehicle with properly operating electronic ignition should last 30k miles of average driving without a problem. Now, if you're racing or have your foot in it a lot, that's a different story. Good platinums will last 100k miles.