got my wheel bearings changed, can't get hub back on shaft, and suggestions. Thanks so much Josh

It's an "interference fit", meaning that you do have to apply some force to get it on. The best way is to get an aluminum pipe that is the same diameter as the inner bearing race, then use that and a hammer to get the bearings to fit over the axleshaft. If you want some help with it, I've got one of those pipes and some time to spare later tonight.

It's an "interference fit", meaning that you do have to apply some force to get it on. The best way is to get an aluminum pipe that is the same diameter as the inner bearing race, then use that and a hammer to get the bearings to fit over the axleshaft. If you want some help with it, I've got one of those pipes and some time to spare later tonight.

 

I'm acutally out in the valley now, yeah its not wanting to go on, I'll look into the pipe method... do you put anything else on before hand ,like the strut etc... or does it work best alone with nothing else attached. ????

I've always taken the strut off with the knuckle. Having the knuckle attached to the strut might help you get better leverage on it. Once you get the axle through the bearings, you can use the castle nut to help pull it farther through. That won't get it all the way in though, so you'll have to pry with screwdrivers and stuff until you can get the hub on and stuff.

I couldn't find any aluminum behing the shop in the scrap piles when I was figuring out how to do this, but discovered that PVC will work. I now carry those spacer I made in my tool box. Probably wont last as many jobs as aluminum, but it's what I had. Good luck

 

 

 

Pyro

It's an "interference fit",

 

ehh, the hub shouldn't be an interfearance fit on the shaft, don't you mean the shaft through the knuckle/bearings?

I suspect thats what he was asking anyway, i can't see why the hub would not go on.

(we're talking fronts here, yes?)

i guess i do it the old fashioned hope i dont break something way. i just get it pretty well lined up ad then take a screwdriver cna carefully pry the axle downward so it is straight then give the hub a few good kicks while im sitting down and then make sure it is still lined up and give it a few more till its out enough for the castle nut on to get it in all the way.btw i grease the hell outta the inside of the bearings and the axle, it will go in so much easier if you grease it well.

 

and the only thing i take apart is the lower balljoint and the outer tie rod end when i change an axle

thanks alot everyone, we used the pipe method and everything is good. NO more bad wheel bearing noise!!!

ehh, the hub shouldn't be an interfearance fit on the shaft, don't you mean the shaft through the knuckle/bearings?

I suspect thats what he was asking anyway, i can't see why the hub would not go on.

(we're talking fronts here, yes?)

 

Yes, I was referring to the axle going through the bearings. If the hub is an interference fit, then something's wrong:rolleyes: .