Snowman

Definitely use Subaru stuff for the bearings and gasket kit. Aftermarket gaskets and seals are crap. Best deal around for SOA parts is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65829 I've always used run of the mill aftermarket clutches and never had a problem.

Both of those statements are correct, but they're dealing with slightly different situations. Setright is talking about when the TO bearing is just starting to get worn. It'll make noise as it begins to brush against the clutch fingers, since it's not turning yet due to its resistance, and the rubbing causes a noise. With the clutch depressed farther and more load on the bearing, it spins and the noise will sometimes go away. If the clutch is properly adjusted to keep the TO bearing away from the fingers, this condition will not make any noise except when the pedal is depressed just to the end of its free travel. I was referring to when it's really starting to get bad, where the TO bearing growls as it rotates with a load on it.

That's on an EA81 engine. On the EA82, it's the "mickey mouse gasket" o-ring. Very different setup. Call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA and ask for Jason in parts. 866 528 5282 He knows all about these engines and can hook you up with anything you need. Their prices are also good, and they ship stuff quickly. I've bought over $5000 in parts from them and have never had a bad experience.

I'd get a darn good straightedge and a flashlight, hold the straightedge against each surface with the flashlight behind it, and check for surface irregularities. If you were careful and lucky, it's very likely still flat and okay. If the heads were damaged, those can be milled easily enough. If the block was damaged, it's probably more cost effective to get another running engine.

I've run Mobil 1 75w-90 in my tranny and rear diff in a couple different cars and have been very pleased. I've spent this winter in anchorage and it's always shifted well. Did fine driving through Tok at -45 a month ago too. Theoretically the 75w-140 is going to flow just as well at low temps, but I doubt it does because it's stretched over such a huge range. In a subaru, you'd never see any benefit from running that over the 75w-90 anyway, especially up here.

Yup. Don't get anywhere near the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Use a yellow roloc bristle disk, as they are made for cleaning aluminum without damaging it. (There are different grades, differentiated by color, intended for use on different metals). Takes a while, but the results are fantastic. They look like this:

I don't see how a timing belt job could cause a 420 code. It's probably a coincidence that it happened at the same time. I know the 2000 and up cars had trouble with the cat actually failing, but most of the 420 codes I've heard about on the older cars were caused by the oxygen sensors getting old and slow. It's probably time to replace both of yours. On the OBDII cars, you need a scanner to clear the code.

I'm pretty sure the '90 Legacy had common issues with the input shaft bearing (and possibly other tranny bearings), which they dealt with by '91. If the noise stops when you are pressing on the clutch, it is definitely not a throwout bearing. That will make noise as you press on the clutch. Does the noise change depending on which gear you are in, or does it follow the engine RPM as long as there is an acceleration or deceleration load on the drivetrain?

I think the "brightest" thing there is the dice though!

Hella 500s are a popular choice that fits well. Lightforce 170s also fit.

That's what I needed to know. Oh well, I guess I'll keep looking. Thanks for the help!

Here's another vote for doing a complet EJ20G swap. Any time you can run an existing, proven, reliable setup, you're better off. A stock EJ20G will make your impreza absolutely fly compared to what it can do now, and it will do so without any headaches or reliability concerns. A turboed EJ18, even if done exceptionally well (major $$$ and time), will get you about the same power but will be under more stress to do it and will not have the reliability or longevity. This is exactly the same reason that most people have stopped messing with the EA82T in the loyales and have started doing EJ22 swaps instead.

I've been looking around at rear overload springs to put in the 1997 Outback struts that are on my 1992 Legacy, and they are available at a pretty reasonable price from Rallitek for 2000 and up Outbacks but not for older ones. 1stsubaruparts.com lists the pre-2000 and post-2000 cars as having different springs, but does anybody here (perhaps those of you who work at dealers or otherwise have access) know what the differences are and if I can put the overload springs for the post-2000 outback in my pre-2000 struts? Thanks for your help!

So are you guys replacing the camshaft oil seals on the DOHC engines in the car as well? That sounds intimidating because of the major torque value on the cam pulley bolts. I've done it out of the car, when you can remove the rocker covers and hold the cams with a wrench, but it doesn't look like you could do that with the engine installed.

Zap really likes using the hoods of parts cars as articulation ramps, doesn't he?