June 5, 200520 yr I hope that I can be of some assistance. You have an intermittent problem. That's the worst kind, because most mechanics don't have the time or the patience to wait for the car to fail and then trobleshoot the problem. So they "guess", that's why you have a new battery. First, the best time to troubleshoot the car is when it has failed, stalled and will not restart. Think of the car's electrical system as a tree. The battery is the trunk, and circuits branch off into smaller circuits like branches in a tree. So, when the car stalls see if anything is working, because that knowledge can help a lot. For example, will the starter "crank"? The safety flashers are probably on their own dedicated circuit. It sounds like you're loosing almost the whole electical system, so the fault probably isn't too far from the battery. A car battery only has 12Volts but a ton of amps. So be careful with all metal objects. NO RINGS on your fingers. Read up on the subject before you start. Be safe.
June 5, 200520 yr That is what they look like. I'm not sure if there is more or not but I think there is. I am more familiar with the Loyale version. The problem could also be a relay. If you don't have a test light to check power with, it would be good to get one at a parts store. Don't worry about the lack of experience. We are all learning here no matter how much we have worked on the cars.
June 7, 200520 yr Author The problem could also be a relay. yeah...the place we brought it to yesterday mentioned that. possibly connected to the a/c...stall often happens w/ the a/c on (but not always). right now it's at the dealer for a diagnostic...yep, big $$$...i'm so dreading the bill on this one. a prime example of how important it is to know as much as possible about your car so that you can fix things yourself...we've already blown a couple hundred for nothing. easily another few hundred coming 'round the bend...
June 8, 200520 yr Author remember my first post regarding all of this back on 5/23? right now it's at the shop...to me this is clearly electrical. it's possible it could be related to the kill switch on the alarm. well, guess what? the dealer is *confident* the problem is from the alarm!!! un..f'ing...believable. yesterday at this time we were lucky to get the car 1/2 mile without it stalling a half dozen times. now, after the alarm has been bypassed...it drove like a champ 12 miles. i will say it again...un..f'ing...believable. obviously, it is *much* too soon to start the champagne flowing...but if this is in fact the problem...i've blown $500 (before purchasing a new alarm) and many hours of sanity on this. proof positive to always, always trust your first gut feeling...
June 8, 200520 yr remember my first post regarding all of this back on 5/23? well, guess what? the dealer is *confident* the problem is from the alarm!!! un..f'ing...believable. yesterday at this time we were lucky to get the car 1/2 mile without it stalling a half dozen times. now, after the alarm has been bypassed...it drove like a champ 12 miles. i will say it again...un..f'ing...believable. obviously, it is *much* too soon to start the champagne flowing...but if this is in fact the problem...i've blown $500 (before purchasing a new alarm) and many hours of sanity on this. proof positive to always, always trust your first gut feeling... What kind of alarm? My 96 Legacy is acting very odd electrically as well, so any more info you have on this would be interesting.
June 9, 200520 yr Author What kind of alarm? My 96 Legacy is acting very odd electrically as well, so any more info you have on this would be interesting. i think it's a code alarm pro 750 (no longer made)...my wife bought it at best buy when the car was new in 1996.
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