I have a leone 87" 1800 turbo that stopped suddenly. I checked the ignition and

found out i didnt have one. I then replaced the coil and it still not work.

What can be wrong? Is this a common problem?

Take off your distributor cap and bump the engine with starter to see if your rotor moves. Chances are it's not going to which means you have a broken timing belt on that side. Report back and let us know and we can help troubleshoot further if needed. Normally a broken timing belt is the first thing most of us guess at.

You may have broke a timing belt. See if the rotor is turning in the distributor while you crank the engine.

Thats right, the rotor didnt moved. Is this a big problem?

Not a big problem, just need to replace your timing belts (yes there is 2 of them, only one is probably broken but replace them both while in there). The EA82T's are non-interference engines so nothing should've happened. You will need to tear down to the timing covers and remove them. Not a big or hard job just takes a bit of time. While your in there you might want to replace your cam/crank seals and maybe your tensioners/waterpump just for the hell of it. I think there is a good write up about changing timing belts in the USRM.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24

I can't get the crank pulley loose. It just spins round and round even if i have the car in gear.

get a breaker bar and butt it agains the driver side of the fender. take off the cooil wire. bump the starter and that will towque it loose. driver side i mean left hand drive us models. if you are right hand drive, it would be the passenger side

thanx for the reply, but i allready got it off.. my problem no is no ingnition-spark. But i'm going to pick up some used ignition-parts tomorrow. hopefully it will work

let us know how things go, if nothing works we can try some other measurs involving hotwiring and toggle switches, so see if the part or the wiring is bad

somebody know where this part sits?

 

It's called ignition module or something like that. I'm going to pick up the parts now, and want to get most of the ignitionparts from the other car.

this part goes inside the distributor

Ok. Now i have changed the distributor, mounted the coil(i didnt know the bracket that holds the coil was earth, that was probably the problem:) ) and now i have spark. But the car still wont start. I'm not shure i have got the timing correct. Can that be the problem?

i've found out that i timed the belt after the btdc-mark, and not the three lines in a row. I guess that would make the timing 180 degrees wrong. I'm going to fix that tomorrow, and hopefully it will start then.. It's an ea82t by the way, i've read something here about some test connectors, but don't know what that is

i've found out that i timed the belt after the btdc-mark, and not the three lines in a row. I guess that would make the timing 180 degrees wrong. I'm going to fix that tomorrow, and hopefully it will start then.. It's an ea82t by the way, i've read something here about some test connectors, but don't know what that is

 

I was wondering the same thing about the green test connectors -why should they be connected in order to time the engine (if you've had the distributor out then you will need to fine tune/time it with a lamp and the connectors attached -but why?!!)

 

Not even 180degrees out -its a random amount out -the three marks are not related as such to the TDC position.

 

Can anyone say what to time the engine to ?20btdc? -at what rpm etc as that is bound to be the next step once the belts are on the right way.

the green connectors simulate the act of plugging the vac line to e machanical disty. this way when you set the initial timing it doesnt advance4 and move around on you, but stays still. the green connectors also cycle the fuel puym and its relay to check if its working while the car is not running

 

 

timing for all 87 and later is 20 deg. carbs are 8 deg. 85-86 turbo is 25 deg

ok., but where does the green connectors go? Can I time it without them? the 20deg, is that from the btdc mark?

you must use the green connector to accurately time the distributor. yes 20 deg btdc.

 

86 spfi the test connectors are under the dash. 87 and later models the connetors are under the hood

 

turbo models are under the dash

 

xt models the connectors are under the rear deck

 

you will want to leave the connectors unplugged any other time and during normal driving

ok, i'll try to look under the dash. But if i don't find it and connect it, will I still be able to get the timing correct? or does the connection adjust itself

now I have got the timingbelts right, the 1# cable on the rotor was on the 20deg mark, but the damn thing still won't fire. Found the green connectors and heard the fuelpump circling.

I would try spraying a little starter fluid into the intake to see if that helps get things going. If that doesn't work then I would think you have a timing problem. You could try moving the distributor while cranking the engine to see if that will help. If it tries to start then you may be a tooth off with the distributor.

when you install the disty you will want t onstall it at the o mark. to guess the timing without a light the disty sshould be 3/4 turned to the right within the range of its adj. slot. a lot of times you can see a shiny spot where thehead of the bolt was at before

 

when the flywheel mark is showing o deg, the passenger cam pulley will have the dot lined up with the top ridge of the flat part of the valve cover, just below the word SUBARU. the driver side dot will be rougly 4:30 o clock

The cams are timed correctly, the distributor should be timed correctly. But i only seem to get one spark from the ignition just when I turn the key. Anybody know why it's only that one spark? it should spark continiously i guess

the one spark is the coil turning on and off, withthe key. its not getting signal from the disty.

 

one of my cars did this, when i turned the key i had no spark but it sparked once when i turned it opff or quit cranking. i ran a hotwire to the coil from the battery and it would start for some reason. it sparked fine as long as it was turning, but nmot when turning the key. a push start would work every time

 

try jumping from the battery to the coil with alligator clips. this will turn the car on even with no key. see if she starts. if she does start take theleads off and see if she still rund

 

note: if you get the car to run like this it will continue to run with the key off until you disconnect the jumper

I tried to hotwire the coil but there are still no spark.

I'm pretty frustrated now:banghead:

ign or ecu fuse?