Hi Folks, I'm a bit confused. Where do I place the c-clamp when compressing piston into caliper? Do I put top part of clamp on the back of caliper and bottom part of clamp on the outer pad itself to compress? I read the posts and have the Haynes book with pictures - still unclear.

Part of the confusion is the one piston caliper. I've done a dozen pad replacements on mercedes that have two pistons per caliper and compressed them independently.

Your suggestions are greatly appreciated as I plan to do the job this weekend.

Cheers,

jakl

ok i don't know if i'm right about this... because i've only worked on old gen cars... but on those there is a pretty big notch in the middle of the piston...

 

now this is the only car brand i know that does this... but what you have to do is turn it... a wrench ussually fits perfectly into the slot... turn it(can't remeber which way sorry... i would assume clockwise is in...) and it will go down... DO NOT try to compress it with a c-clamp... you will wreck it...

 

now this is for the old gen cars... i don't know if its the same for your newer car... but i would hold off with the c-clamp until you get some more feedback...

 

but ya... hope it all goes well...

Keep the old pad on the caliper and put the C-Clamp right in the middle of the pad. That way the caliper goes in even. Also make sure you take off your brake fluid cap and leave it off while doing this. Siphon out about 1/2 the fluid. Otherwise you'll have a big mess on your hands.

In the past I used to force the fluid back up to the master cylinder, but now with anti-lock systems, it's best to open the caliper bleeder and force the cruddy old fluid out of the system into a jar. The ABS motor is sensitive to anything other than clean fluid.

Thanks for your input... I especially like opening the bleeder valve while compressing piston - great tip! I'll first have to find a c-clamp large enough to span that distance. I'll keep you posted.

Cheers,

-jakl

DO NOT try to compress it with a c-clamp... you will wreck it...

Good point. Disk brakes that are actuated by handbrake cable adjust by threading the piston out as the pad wears. You have to turn the piston back in or you'll do damage. I've seen slots, squares, and hexes on these pistons for turning them. Autoparts stores have universal (but cumbersome) wrenches for them. I don't know what car you're working on, but most modern cars are set up this way. Except my Legacy, which is not modern, and my Landcruiser, which is more like an implement.

I'll first have to find a c-clamp large enough to span that distance.

I prefer a pair of huge Channellock (slip-joint) pliers. If you don't have one, buy one, they're one of the most versatile tools you can own.

I prefer a pair of huge Channellock (slip-joint) pliers. If you don't have one, buy one, they're one of the most versatile tools you can own.

 

I use channellocks, too.

DO NOT try to compress it with a c-clamp... you will wreck it...

 

now this is for the old gen cars... i don't know if its the same for your newer car... but i would hold off with the c-clamp until you get some more feedback...

I had the understanding that this was the case on the older Subie's, but not on the newer ones. I just did the front's on my wife's 2000 OBW (dual piston), and just pushed the pistons in by hand, mostly. Next month is the rears (one piston, I believe), but I can't imagine they'd be different.

the_bard

I had the understanding that this was the case on the older Subie's, but not on the newer ones. I just did the front's on my wife's 2000 OBW (dual piston), and just pushed the pistons in by hand, mostly. Next month is the rears (one piston, I believe), but I can't imagine they'd be different.

 

scottbaru makes a good point... it believe it is because of the e-brake... now on your wifes new car the e-brake is in the rear... unlike the old subies... now the turning thing may have to be used on the rear just because of the e-brake...

 

But! i also think that the e-brake doesn't use the rear disc... i recall somebody saying this... the e-brake has a seperate small drum brake inside/behind/somewhere the disc brake... its the same on isuzus...

 

now i'm all interested... my does our 01 legacy have to be at the airport waiting for my mom to come back from salt lake...

 

i miss the legacy... oh and my mom...

scottbaru makes a good point... it believe it is because of the e-brake... now on your wifes new car the e-brake is in the rear... unlike the old subies... now the turning thing may have to be used on the rear just because of the e-brake...

 

But! i also think that the e-brake doesn't use the rear disc... i recall somebody saying this... the e-brake has a seperate small drum brake inside/behind/somewhere the disc brake... its the same on isuzus...

 

now i'm all interested... my does our 01 legacy have to be at the airport waiting for my mom to come back from salt lake...

 

i miss the legacy... oh and my mom...

 

I can confirm that the rear brakes on my wife's 97 Legacy Outback has dual piston calipers and a seperate set of cable operated brake shoes.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I neglected to say this is a '95 Legacy L with single piston calipers. There is no way to retract the piston as you suggest - only push it back with a c-clamp.

 

I'll keep you posted of outcome.

 

Cheers,

 

-jakl

on my 93 i was able to get a big screwdriver in and pry the piston back. I was replacing the rotors anyway and was not worried about them. once i had it all apart i did have to finish pushing them in with a clamp.