August 15, 200520 yr So I got my freebie up and running like a champ, but there is one problem. I have foaming coolant. I did put some radiator flush (detergent style) in not too long ago, but have since drained/flushed the radiator (but not the engine). I did have a bad rad cap, but have since replaced it. This is allowing the foam to get out the overflow tank. Could the flush still be in the system causing the foam? Am I looking at a head gasket issue? Help!
August 15, 200520 yr Yes, a small amount of detergent can make a large amount of foam. And since the block will retain 30-50% of the total coolant, I would assume that there would be quite a bit of flush in the system. If you don't have a reason to suspect a leaking HG then you probably don't have one.
August 15, 200520 yr Author Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that I didn't have milky/missing oil. So it really doesn't point to a HG. How does one drain the engine coolant anyway?
August 15, 200520 yr A nut near the exhaust y pipes on each head. I think you need a hex bolt to undo it. I took the thermostat off, did a reverse flush of the block. Turned the heater on, disconnected the hoses and did a flush of it. Worked well, but i'm not 100% it would completely flush the cooling. I think it could be a HG, but as a last resort!
August 15, 200520 yr ...I took the thermostat off, did a reverse flush of the block. Turned the heater on, disconnected the hoses and did a flush of it... This would be a good way to go. Please note that, AFAIK, there is no heater control valve on the EA82s and up, so the heater circuit is always "on".
August 15, 200520 yr Go get a prestone flush&fill kit. It allows you to connect a garden hose to the heater line. Take out the thermostat, pull off the bottom radiator hose, and turn on the water. Start the engine, and enjoy a positive flush.
August 15, 200520 yr Please note that, AFAIK, there is no heater control valve on the EA82s and up, so the heater circuit is always "on".Thanks for that. I did a flush on an older vehicle that does, so i assumed the Subaru would have one on the heater unit.
August 15, 200520 yr Thanks for that. I did a flush on an older vehicle that does, so i assumed the Subaru would have one on the heater unit. If in doubt, better to set the heater control to "hot" anyways. It doesn't hurt anything, and the effort is rewarded by knowing that the heater is "open".
August 15, 200520 yr Author Huh... never woulda thunk of running with the hose on it. Seems that the water would be too cold for the hot block. I have ice cold well water... think that would make a difference? Either way, thanks for the tips. I'll be trying them out tonight!
August 15, 200520 yr I would leave the radiator hose on, but loose, then turn on the water a little, take off the radiator hose, and turn the water up.
August 16, 200520 yr Author So I flushed the WHOLE system and it seems to have "fixed the glitch." No foam in the overflow tank. BUT, when I had the rad cap off to bleed the system, I had tiny bubbles. Could this be the last bit of air in the system, or is it definately a head gasket? Even if it is the gasket, I'm gonna run her until it's real bad. Guess I should borrow a cylinder pressure gauge eh?
August 16, 200520 yr A bubble wouldn't be unusual after a flush of the block. I'd think your HG are fine. Don't bother with a pressure test. If the water only has water, the oil only has oil and your not burning too much oil... keep driving. Basically, just keep an eye on it. I wouldn't stress at all. Everything seems to be easily explainable now you've sucessfully flushed it.
August 16, 200520 yr Author Thanks to everyone for the posts and help. I'm sure I'll be starting a new thread for the next issue. But for now, I have a fully functional soobie
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