Mantonite

I may have missed something, but make sure there are no air leaks b/w your air flow sensor and the manifold. I have had similar issues when I forgot a hose (or two) after working on an engine. Caused it to start then immediately die due to lean burn. Just another look at it I guess...

Well, I went to dig into the issue and pulled the rad cap... DRY! It took about 3/4 of a gallon to fill 'er up. I'm thinking rad cap... can anyone verify/deny?

All good thoughts. I can hopefully dig into it this weekend. I'll pull the stat for diagnosis only... if it fixes it I will get a new one in there ASAP. Thanks for all the ideas!

All good thoughts... some more background: T-Stat replaced and rad flushed 6K ago. Tried a higher temp (non-OEM) one and it promptly overheated (trapped air or something). Wen't back to the other one and it worked fine. It's not OEM though... now that I know more about that maybe it's time to get a real one. Cheapest supplier? I'll check the fans, but I doubt that's it as I have an open-road commute. The 60 MPH wind would overpower the fan anyway. I'll take a look and report back! Maybe I'll just pull the T-stat entirely and see if that helps.

My '94 Loyale's temp gauge used to sit nicely just above the "C", but has been sneaking up lately. It is full of coolant, before you ask. Any ideas other than HG?

Bring a fuel filter with you too... you can suck up all the sediment in the bottom of the tank when you run out.

AAARRRGGGH! The body doesn't warrant a rebuild (rust)... I'll drive it until it dies and part it out/scrap it. What is the failure? Can I expect a deterioration or will it give up all of a sudden?

Changed the oil in my 94 Loyale last night and noticed that the underside of the oil cap was the frothy oil that makes me think head gasket. The oil coming out of the pan was just fine though. Do I have to worry about an impending, catastrophic failure or should I just keep driving until it makes itself something to worry about?

Well, the fiddling worked. I was ready to take the inner panel off and I don't think it would have happened with the door closed. One guy fiddling with the lock and handle on the inside, one doing the same with a key on the outside got 'er open. The lower pivot was froze up. Some WD-40 got it working again, but I'm gonna have to seal up the holes in the door or else I'm sure it'll happen again. For now, I'm running with no interior door panel... just in case. Thanks for the help y'all!

Yeah... but I like my skis and want to keep 'em around a while. That's the only time I lock it. I'll try the handle fiddling thing (sounds dirty:-p ). That could save me a couple hours.

Thanks for the help... it'll be in the (relatively speaking) heated garage, so I'm not too worried about the cold plastic cracking issue. I'll let y'all know what I find/how it goes. Hopefully will get to it tonight... climbing in the passenger side is a PITA!!!

So I went to get in the '94 Loyale yesterday turned the key in the lock and it moved, but I could feel the rod bending but not unlocking. No luck unlocking from the inside either. Two questions: - Can I get the door panel off from the inside with the door closed? - What can I expect to be the problem... once I get the panel off? Thanks in advance for the help!!!

I have to disagree... give the tires one job and one job only. Accelerate or turn. The tendancy to overwhelm the front tires is MUCH greater if they have to be relied on to both accelerate and steer. Yes... you can trail brake, yadda yadda yadda, but there is a reason that all race cars are RWD. If you can honestly tell me that you have never experienced throttle-on understeer in your Subaru at the limit, I will take back my post.

Totally off the wall, but I thought of it once and it would fit here. The knuckle/hub assy on a HMMWV (Hummer) is ~2:1 reduction, and the direction is reversed in the reduction. If you ever have followed a HMMWV, you would see that the axleshafts are spinning BACKWARDS relative to vehicle motion. Therefore... stick the engine out back, adapt a set of HMMWV reduction hubs to your halfshafts (HMMWVs are four-wheel independant suspension), and go 1/2 as fast (with twice the torque). You would also gain some clearance at the halfshaft b/c the input is up top. I know... crazy but possible.

Check the ball joints and tie rod ends by grabbing and pulling... should be tight. I ignored the popping in my car and had it towed home with one wheel all cattywhumpus after the ball joint finally gave.

Ethylene Glycol. Why the holes torxxx, and what is the point of that jiggle pin anyway?

New thought this morning... what is the boiling point of straight Glycol? I may have grabbed a bottle of straight stuff instead of the 50/50 I should be running (oops). Maybe the low temp stat keeps it just below the boiling point of the current mix and the other puts it above???

Have you replaced the rad cap? It may be popping off at too high a pressure... that could explain the busted hose. Just a thought...

Borrow the tool from AutoZone... no cost to you and saves a torn dust boot from nicking it with the needle nose pliars (personal experience).

It is done!!! Brought the lower arm to a machine shop and they pressed it out for free: "bring back something bigger and better next time" was the quote of the day. Reassembly was pretty straight forward. The only tips/comments I would have is to make sure the parking brake cable is routed correctly... I had mine over the halfshaft and had to pull it from the caliper to get it correct. Other than that just take your time and hope you can find all the piece parts! Thanks for your help. Another Suby that isn't ready to see the junk yard yet!

There's nothing for the fork to grab on this side. All there is is the ball of the ball joint (the other half is in the trash somewhere). Should be cheap to get it pressed out anyway. We shall see...

Update (for anyone who cares): Rebuilt the inner CV joint... hope I did a good enough job. Cleaned out the inside of the knuckle (where the BJ goes in) with a screwdriver and a dremel with wire brush. Put a through bolt in where the pinch bolt was and hit it with Locktite red. Should hold eh? Now all I have to do is the the other half of the BJ out of the suspension arm. I have to wait until the kiddos are awake before I can try. I'll hit it with the air hammer and a normal hammer for a while... if that doesn't work it's time for the press. All for a $15 dollar part...

Cheery attitude??? It's not worth not having it. I got the car for free... you have to expect something to be wrong. Ball joint pinch bolt drilled out no problem. Kept 'er centered and actually preserved the threads! A 3/8" drill bit is just under the metric bolt... I'll through bolt it anyway. Strut pinch bolt didn't want to stay centered, but she ended up seeing things my way. Now the lower half of the ball joint is another story. It doesn't want to come out at all. I'm in the process of pulling the lower arm so I can bring it to work/a shop to have it pressed out. We'll see how that goes. Should the halfshaft have fallen out as I was working on the knuckle??? I thought that it was pressed in??? Any tricks to getting it back in? That's my saga update for the day... Any and all comments are welcome!

Well, I promptly snapped the pinch bolt on the strut now. Pulled the whole strut/knuckle/CV assembly now and started the drill-out process. Only have a battery drill (DeWalt 18V) and it's dead for now (spare battery cooked a while back). EZ out didn't work out either. NOTE: Anyone trying this for themselves, I suggest taking out the whole strut assembly... you don't even have to crack open the brake system! Live and learn I guess. Do have someone on the site asking if it's the same on all EA82s... is it? Let me know 'cause I may take him up on the offer!

No used assemblies round these here parts. "They've all been crushed" was the quote of the day. Anyone have one they want to share???