Mantonite

What would be slick is if you could use a front-driver tranny in a rear-engine. Just take the entire front end out of something and drop it in the Subie. I'm just trying to think what that something is. I know there were some longitudinal engine, front drive, Cadillac 500s, but I don't think that tranny would bolt up to the 350 block. Was there a front-driver, longitudinal engined, 350 car??? Kinda like the Sho-Gun, but with a bigger car and a bigger engine. But that prolly means buying things... not your goal, but a thought. That way you could keep the subie engine in until you get it running again, then you can pull the rear boat-anchor out!

Dang... hoping someone was close by to steal parts from. Let me know if you want to do something in Houghton... that's not too far from me. Don't know if the subie would make it down to Detroit... but I'd sure be willing to try.

Shooting from the cuff here, but what about JB weld? I can't imagine it would be succeptable to fuel... but I haven't tried it either. Just a thought.

Did the vac gage test: At Idle: 20" Hg (inches of mercury) When Accelerating: Can go down to 0 At 2000(ish, no tach outside): 20 Release: 25 Returns to 20 with RPM (When it reaches idle, the vac gage gets to 20) Is this good or bad???

Cheap multimeter I have... clue as to how to test, I don't have. Can you clue me in?

I like that test... I'll hopefully give it a try tonight. Swapped out the air filter... small improvement, but not gangbusters by any means. I am beginning to think it is actually the muffler, not the cat. The pipe just in front of the muffler seems to be failing at an alarming rate. Time for some flex pipe and a glass pack (cherry bomb). I'll try to update as I have more!

Where would one find Additional info: This was done by cycling the key, not a "T" while running... does that change your opinion, or is this really a high reading?

UPDATE: Tonight, the EGR Valve left, but still had the problem. Rechecked (and adjusted) the timing and still have the problem. Put a gage on the fuel line just in from of the (replaced) fuel filter and had 50 psi! Seems like too much if anything. Held pressure well too. PCV replaced, to no fix. Sprayed carb cleaner around under the hood and didn't notice any jumps. I'm left with the air cleaner (not replaced but looks good) or the cats. Don't even know which one to lean towards. Air cleaners are cheap, so I'll probably pick one up tomorrow. Rear cat may leave tomorrow too. Can you tell the wife and kiddos are out of town? All this time, but lots of projects too. Okay Subaru gurus... help me out!!!

That too is on my list o' things to check, but I don't feel like squirting fuel all over the place. If I find a gage and check it, I'll let you know.

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but some may have subscribed. Relative newbie here just north of Cadillac... not far from you Noah. Just wanted to say hi and get on the mailing list for meet and greets. Not likely to make many with wifey and kiddos demanding time, but there's a (slight) chance I could make one.

Soak with PB Blaster... hit with hammer... soak with PB Blaster... drive until hot... soak with PB Blaster... hit with hammer... place crow bar on disty ear so I can hit with a full hammer swing... repeat and... IT'S FINALLY LOOSE... well, loose enough it moves with a hammer blow so I can change the timing. BUT, it wasn't my problem (more power half throttle than floored). Guess it's time to track down vacuum leaks (read: remove all unnecessary vacuum components). Thanks for all the help!

Sorry... forgot to mention that I did use a hammer, at least the best I could. Not much room for a swing you know? Maybe I should use my air hammer??? That would guarantee that I would kill something. I'm thinking that I'll just have to pull the disty so I can work with it on the bench. How much of a pain is it to get it back in time?

Bump/Update So I have been soaking the disty/mount/shaft in PB Blaster the best I can and nothing. I've been driving around with the bolts loose hoping it will loosen up. Nothing. Tonight I took the cap and rotor off and put an old oil filter wrench on the body and tried to twist. NOTHING!!! :banghead: Any other help out there??? Do I have to pull the engine to pry the thing out? Do I need to put the porta-power to it? Am I missing something? Aargh!

Try here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42182

I went to Autozone for the universal (Bosch) sensor (~$20). Use the loan-a-tool service for the socket if you need it. I managed with a box-end wrench (after modding the cat a bit to get to it). You will have to re-crimp the connector on the new one, but any standard wire cutter/stripper/crimper tool will work just fine. good luck!

I think I got a 35 once when I left the test (green) connectors plugged in after checking the timing. Maybe it got connected when the new engine was put in? I remember checking the code, finding that it was the purge contol solenoid, and scratching my head until I found the connector. Then again, I could be totally off. That wouldn't be anything new.

Man, I hate to smack on electronic components, but guess I'll just have to. Did you use the penetrating oil from the outside or take the cap off and spray from inside? Any other idears?

Well, I rechecked my timing tonight after o2 sensor, fuel filter, etc. and found that I am at about 25° BTDC. Simple fix I thought, but I loosened the two bolts (the ones with the slotted holes below them) and tried to turn it. No joy. I could not for the life of me turn that disty. Am I missing a bolt/screw? Could this be why I'm stronger at half throttle than full? Also, my green connector only has one wire on either side. Is this normal, or do I have a loose wire somewhere? That is the connector that has to be connected when timing, correct? I just want to get this gal running the best I can. Can y'all help???

Changed... Prolly should have taken pictures too eh? Oh well... next time I'll try to be better at helping out the board.

Guess I did it the hard way. I took the lock cylinder out of the door, took the lock cylinder apart (keeping springs/pins in place of course) and pushed the key out far enough so I could grab it with hemos. All done in about 30 min. Couldn't believe how easy it was to get the door panel apart! Thanks for the other suggestions.

Ask some questions! To use, measure from the hitch point back to where the center of gravity (CG) of the component is. Put that in the location column. Now take a weight and put that in the weight column. After you have all the components filled in play around with the axle location until you get the tongue weight you want. Comprendo?

Subaru dealer came throught... got a key no problemo. Not free though, but $7.50 is a small price to pay for what it could have been. Now for the removal... not going to pay anyone. I'll take the door apart and see what I can see.

So I just snapped the key off in the door lock. Stupid me, I hadn't gotten a second key cut yet. Subaru dealer can cut another ($8), but just want to know if this is a common thing. Second question, how in sam hill do I get the half key out of the door lock? Can I get in there with tweezers? Do I have to pull it out and shake the key out? Do I need to just live with it? Stupid me.

E-mail sent. Let me know if you don't get it for some reason.

Haven't had any problems with it stumbling when not under load, but I'll pay a bit more attention to it to see. As far as the cat, if anything the rear one would have an "out of body" experience. Can the front be replaced with a y-pipe and an o2 sensor bung (for off road use only of course )? The more I think about it, it does feel like clogged exhaust. I'll look into it...