Help: First-time EA82 Overhaul

[DirtyMech]

Well I've done it. I've committed myself to at the very least putting new head gaskets on my car's engine, which is leaking oil faster in recent days. I ordered the full OEM gasket set from autopartsauthority.com for only $94 w/ free shipping.

 

The vehicle is a 1985 Subaru DL 1800 2WD carbureted (DCZ-328). I'm going to be removing the engine from the vehicle even though I've heard that you can replace head gaskets without doing so. The main reason for this is because the chassis inside the engine room is covered in 20 years of caked-on grease and fluids. It's ugly and makes it hard to see the vehicle components, so while the engine is out of the vehicle im gonna scrub down the chassis and give it a paint job.

 

But as for the engine, I need to correct a few things. I'm considering replacing the clutch while the engine is out of the car, because that thing squeals pretty bad. But I'm considering that I may have to go further than new head gaskets, because the spark plug from cylinder 1 suggests that oil is leaking into the compression chamber. Once I get my compression gague in the mail, I'll know more about the condition of the combustion chambers.

 

But if the seal between the piston rings and cylinder wall is faulty, I might have to take this engine apart and put it back together piece by piece, which is a daunting task. Is there anyone here who'se done something like that before? If so I'd like whatever advice you can give. Are there any special engine tools that I should consider investing in? A ridge reamer, etc? I'm reading up on basic engine service in the Automotive Encyclopedia, but I'm sure that advice from someone who'se had hands-on experience with an EA82 will be invaluable.

 

Should I order any engine parts beyond the gasket set? What should I expect, and avoid doing?

[Snowman]

Doing a complete rebuild on an EA82 really isn't a huge deal. I've done two of them and am doing a third in my spare time. To do it right with factory parts and getting the heads resurfaced cost probably around $1000 by the time it was all done.

 

For any engine work, the best advice I can give is this. Keep everything organized. Zip-loc bags work great to put bolts and other small parts in, and can be labeled to avoid any confusion. Make sure everything is super clean when you put it back together. Also, try to do it all in a short period of time. Few things suck worse than trying to remember how stuff went together when you restart a project a month later.

 

To do a full rebuild, in addition to the gasket set, you will need main bearings, rod bearings, and a ring set. I would highly recommend just getting new HVLAs from Mizpah. Even if yours aren't ticking, at $5 a pop, it's cheap insurance. You should also replace the oil pump with a new OEM one. Generally, if the engine ran fine otherwise, no machine work is necessary on the crank or rods, but getting the heads resurfaced and having the valves and seats ground is a very good idea. The machine shop can also inspect the heads for cracking and other defects.

 

The only special tools you need to buy are a ring compressor and a cylinder hone. You will need to make a piston pin puller to get the pins out, but that's easy to make from a long bolt. Subaru engines usually exhibit very little cylinder wear, so a ridge reamer really is not necessary.

 

Be sure to label all the rods, pistons, and followers, as they should go back in the same position. Don't make the dumb mistake I did and reverse a rod cap by not paying attention to the manual. The rods and caps are made to be installed ONLY one way.

 

The sealant you should use on the block halves is Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. The stuff that was used at the factory is no longer available, but the Permatex is the best substitute.

 

The engine section of the Factory Service Manual (invaluable when doing this sort of work) can be found at http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142.

 

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.

[idosubaru]

he's got it going on, follow his suggestions. i'm sure he assumed this was being done, but in the process of the valve job he described be sure the valve seals are replaced. i think it's best to cool them prior to inserting to help *shrink* them slightly for a tighter fit without gauling/defacing the metal.

 

if you bought the head set gasket set, i think you only need an extra o-ring to rebuild the block. it's only a couple extra seals/gaskets/orings to complete the block.

 

it sure would suck to assume you need a full rebuild if it's just the valve seal leaking oil. it is also possible to remove the piston without pulling the motor apart - so you have the option of pulling one piston, honing that cylinder and just replacing the rings on that one piston. much easier, cheaper and faster than pulling the entire motor apart.

[DirtyMech]

Um, valve seals? I think I see those in the Haynes manual...let me see if I can find a set for sale at Auto Parts Authority. Oh by the way, the APA site only lists my engine type (EA82) under the Subaru Leone/Loyales. Engine parts from these vehicles should be identical to the engine parts in a DL, right?

 

Found what might be the valve seals! Are these them (valve STEM seals, right?)? No pic, sadly.

 

http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/parts/autopartsauthority/wizard.jsp?year=1985&make=SU&model=LOY--001&category=A&part=Valve%20Stem%20Seal&dp=false

 

If not, where can I buy them?

 

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Okay, about the tools. Check out this cylinder hone and ring compressor I

found at ToolTopia. Look like they will do the job for me, or am I going too cheap?

 

Cylinder Hone:

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7114

 

Ring Compressor:

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5476

 

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