I am concerned about the backfiring. Are you sure the timing is ok and the firing order is correct? You could try marking the disty position and then try moving it while it is cranking over to see if that will help get it going.

 

The MAF should have 12 volts going to one lead at least I think. Check all the leads going back to the ECU and make sure there is no connection problem. Sorry I can't help with a diagram as I am work now.

 

I am pretty sure the timing is OK. I know they wont run without a maf, Mine used to shut off immediantly when I unplugged it.

 

I dont have a clue what the backfireing is about...it is bad.

 

I am just going to bite the bullet and take her into the dealer. I have no real testing equipment, nor the time to keep messing with it. I have to get her running very soon as I am moving.

 

Thanks to all who have helped.

I am pretty sure the timing is OK. I know they wont run without a maf, Mine used to shut off immediantly when I unplugged it.

 

Eh? It should run without it, not very well, but the computer should go in to "safe mode" to allow it to be driven - same with a lot of the sensors necissary for proper operation.

yes like Ross said. The car will put itself into a "Safe Mode" or a "Limp Mode" so it is able to get it to a servicable area. The MAF is like any other sensor. If the sensor goes south, the computer will substitute a variable into it by seeing what the other sensors are doing. Kind of the "Smart" thing for it to do. It'll run with no MAF, just don't expect it to go above like 3500rpm and make hardly any power.

yes like Ross said. The car will put itself into a "Safe Mode" or a "Limp Mode" so it is able to get it to a servicable area. The MAF is like any other sensor. If the sensor goes south, the computer will substitute a variable into it by seeing what the other sensors are doing. Kind of the "Smart" thing for it to do. It'll run with no MAF, just don't expect it to go above like 3500rpm and make hardly any power.

 

Wierd. Mine never had a "limp Mode". If I lost a major sensor it died. Including the coolant sensor. If it did have a limp mode than disconnecting the maf shouldnt really do anything. If it had a bad maf it would just bypass it anyways.

 

I am tired of messing with it. I am taking it to the dealer any ways. Winter is coming up and I dont want to be outside swapping parts or messing with a fluke meter. Ill bring this thread back when they figure it out.

I am pretty sure the timing is OK. I know they wont run without a maf, Mine used to shut off immediantly when I unplugged it.

 

Mine does that also:confused: It would start then die immediately.

 

have you tried starting it while moving the disty around? I had the timing at 0* TDC on my wifes 91 loyale after I replaced the disty once. It ran, but made popping sounds after revving it up.

 

since you have the timing belt covers off, to make sure the disty is in correctly,

 

crank the engine over by hand so that the dot on the passenger side cam is pointing due north-west. At that point the rotor should be pointing straight to the #1 plug wire.

Sounds like the distributer out 180 degrees as described in the ea82 performance article.

 

Could the previous people have had it out and put it back backwards?

 

And now you've replaced the ecu but its still 180 out?