rol1

Go to junk yard and get the copper contacts from old starters. You can see which ones are worn. Easy fix for most starters, don't buy new starters without checking the contactors first.

But a 2 wheel drive has cheaper insurance, and they, the insurance companies won't give you the 2wd rate on a 4wd ser.# even if you change trans,

92 loyale has them under the hood as he said. one for test, one for stored codes, and both to clear stored codes.

Sounds like what my 92 Loyale did when I bought it from the auction. It would pop for a second then die with a shot of gas. It was the fuel pump. If it caught before, tried to fire, then the problem must be intermitent if its the dist or cas.

What about color coordinated silicone boots and polly bushings? Yellow, red?

Those coiled jelly-cells may not test as a regular battery. Go get it tested a a place that is authorized to deal Optimas.

What can I do with the ea82 to get some more pep?

It prob has a spring and a ball that acts as a one way valve. Push the brake and the fluid pushes against the spring and opens letting fluid out. Let go the brakes and the spring pushes the ball back so no air enters the line.

So this has a 2wd so could I use this distributer with my 92 Loyale? As it suggest for N/A power tune-up? What HP does this mpfi xt4 ea82 have?

A penny to make and $10.00 to sell???? Why, thank you very much. Was it good for you too? I'm a little sore though without the Vasoline.

Looks like this is one of those times a factory piston from subaru, OR, get to pick-a-part and find a factory piston for $5.

There was a article in the repair manual off the homepage link above. The author welded his own tops and showed how he did the whole thing. The link has been down but maybe somebody had saved the page and could post it here? I've been looking for it.

Are the tweets and mid wired seperately? Be nice if you could bi-amp without running new wires.

Since the SVX was NA, was it a 3.9 LSD? And thanks for the replies.

OOOhhhkAAA, so how do I know which type is which?

It's the bind. Put it up on jackstands and stick another jack under the lower control arm and jack it up a couple of inches and try to knock it off. Then jack it up another couple of inches and try again. Repeat. Next time.

4/5lug, brakes, springs, LSD I read in a post that a guy could stiffen up his springs by using RX springs up front. Honda springs will fit the rear but will raise it 2". As I have a 92 Loyale waggon stiffening things up sounds like a good idea. Then there is the brakes, rear discs of course. The easy way is to get the 4lug disc stuff from a turbo and do it. But there's the option of 5lug discs also. I been reading the threads about the 5lug swap also. Read one of the repair manuals from the home page where the author cut 2 coils from his front springs to level his ride. One of the comments a bottom of the page ask why he didn't just raise the rear with a spacer, but the author preferred the stock ride. I can get the stuff for the 4lug reardisc swap and maybe the springs. Or I could start getting parts for a 5lug swap. What is the ride like with the 5lug swap? What is the springs like? Are there other spring options with the rear xt6 parts, something like the Honda springs' 2" lift? The brakes look better than the 4lug brakes, yes? Doesn't it matter? Is there any problem doing the 5lug and the LSD swap? Them working together? Even as I write this I know I can more easily step into the 4lug discs, LSD, and springs as "opportunity presents" than to get all the 5lug together at one time. But if you know some about the xt/imp brakes, share. Are they that much stronger than the 4lug?

I needed a battery I went to autozone and got a duralast gold. It came with a card that's good for 2 jumps a year for 3 years, at up to $50 a shot. I didn't see a GM alt upgrade on your sig? Maybe get 2 batteries and a battery isolator.

So does it matter if the original spacer rings and end caps are used, or just to use the same number of spacers as in the 3.7? But with the lean to same side as the 3.9? I ask cause if all I need from the yard is the dif gear cluster without the ring gear, these window clerks might not know what it is, and I might get a deal, eh? Do you guy's think I can get the LSD gear cluster fror $20 or less?:) Is there a better way to check and set the run out and preload? It's probably better if I just stick to plans a grab the end caps and spacers off the 3.70.

I'm sorry, but I thought all those wires, sensors and solinoids on the carb were used to optimize fuel consumption? One set of those wires is used to lean-out the fuel mix? Did you or your dad put new everything from the rebuild kit or did you just take it apart, blast it off with carb cleaner, and put it back together?

How about some way to extend the shaft on the intake side and hook up a oversize dentist drill to spin the shaft. The airmotor only has to spin-up a second while the turbo catches up. An earlier post brought this to mind: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DIYGasTurbines/

Does the ecu dump more air in with the idle air control valve? If you're idleing good, when it warms up, does it idle faster when the airconditioner turns on? Would that indicate the IAC valve is working?

Or you can convert to tb/efi and not worry about what stupid little channel has that chunk of varnish in it.

Liquid Wrench has been around forever, don't know if they have ever changed the way it's made. Around 1970 to 71 my uncle bought some WD40. New stuff in a spraycan you just squirt on the nut , don't have to run those little coathanger wires to drip the Liquid Wrench on to the nut, cool chit man. While twisting wrenches and humping dishwashers in an appliance store the boss came in with a can of LPS II, the medium body stuff, to try to get the squeek out off the used swampcooler motors' clutches. He had tried WD40 but the first formula messed with the motor varnish and he had to replace a couple. The LPS didn't kill the motor windings, so it started getting wider use. Then WD40 came up with their dielectric formula. A plumber first showed me JB80 on some rusted castiron plumbing fittings. You know, the 4" crap thats been rusting there for twenty years. I expected to hear "Well, I'll have to replace all this" just before I tell him to knock a hole in the cap and leave it open. But he had his big channel locks and a can of JB80, soaked it down and slapped it with the channel locks, went an got out his snake came back and it twists right off. I spent a hour talking to him about what all he's done with it. I don't buy wd40 anymore, just what I find in the wrecks in the junkyard. Good for blasting the crap off some threads, but when I got some rusty trouble I go grab the JB80. I feel safe saying that if you have used JB80, you won't speak so well about WD40.

In the repair manual off of the homepage the LSD to 3.90 swap says that then the jpeg seems to indicate that the end caps are from the 3.70 (circled in blue).